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+---- Thread: So it begins...... Battery spot welder (/thread-4548.html)
RE: So it begins...... Battery spot welder - rvpopeye - 06-03-2025
Battery leaks aren't much fun.
So , I got an e-bike @48v and I've been looking into making up an extra 14s x 2,3,4s ? pack and saw this link below while looking at spot welding units .
I'm not sure about 18650 vs 20700 but cost says 18650. Your posts are sinking in !LOL thx.
https://www.amazon.com/BIBABLYKE-Portable-Adjustable-Electronic-Component/dp/B0CKMXCTHP/ref=dp_prsubs_d_sccl_1/141-8756879-0968755?pd_rd_w=koIdQ&content-id=amzn1.sym.be3a2f09-77ee-4ba3-b2da-1b73c76c3fe2&pf_rd_p=be3a2f09-77ee-4ba3-b2da-1b73c76c3fe2&pf_rd_r=D4HQK4K0QPK3HMKDX4CH&pd_rd_wg=v7roY&pd_rd_r=8d565cc5-bb06-45a6-8cc1-a90b0c3371dd&pd_rd_i=B0CKMXCTHP&psc=1
RE: So it begins...... Battery spot welder - sternwake - 06-03-2025
I think there are you tube videos with that welder. Double pulse iirc. powerful. no directions, bad interface.
It can weld either 18650 or 21700.
You needz a weld battery to power it.
I destroyed two welderz.using my deka agms, seeking more power than my Zee 3s lipo had.
Zee was cheap. 36$
I bet a better lipo would allow shorter duration pulses to weld effectively.
https://endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/what-is-a-good-budget-spot-welder.124788/
RE: So it begins...... Battery spot welder - sternwake - 06-03-2025
Ok, towing Fionagirl in her chariot with new BAK battery, our top speed increased from 19 to 23 mph.
23mph was just barely achievable solo, with these motors, when that battery was new with all urethane wheels.
I'm running 8x3" pneumatics at only 8psi up front now, which have far more drag.
Unloaded max speed on the bench is 26mph.
There is a very noticeable torque increase when towing Fiona on the crushed shell trail.
The remote has a 4 bar battery level indicator on it. It used to fall to one bar on our way to the water on the CST. It now stays at 4 bars.
The extra torque and top speed is because of much less voltage sag under load, because.of quality Tabless cells.
No idea how hot this battery will get, nor the amount of increased range, yet.
I've a tracking number for new 90mm hub motors, shipping from nearby.
Same motors as I had before I dunked them in the bay and dislocated my shoulder.
They were a lot quieter, and smoother, with longer freeroll, and had top unloaded speed of 30mph and I once hit that solo, wind and terrain assisted. It's too fast.
I have extra 90mm urethane sleeves for them, and can get more.
Some 105mm sleeves are available too, but at the cost of lost torque and braking force.
RE: So it begins...... Battery spot welder - GypsyDogs - 06-06-2025
Hmmm.. wonder if you can integrate a gaming pc processor radiator/cooler for the battery?
Sorry.. just spitballing.. lol
RE: So it begins...... Battery spot welder - sternwake - 06-06-2025
(06-06-2025, 05:39 PM)GypsyDogs Wrote: Hmmm.. wonder if you can integrate a gaming pc processor radiator/cooler for the battery?
Sorry.. just spitballing.. lol
My old DMEGC-26E 10s2p battery was running too hot, getting to 58C/136.4F all to easily.
This was measured on the outside of the pack, atop lots of layers of fishpaper, Kapton tape, 0.5mm G10 fiberglass, silicone, and heatshrink.
The actual cell temp were likely way over 60C, which is the max rated temperature of this particular cell.
The battery was nestled in neoprene foam padding within the fiberglass enclosure, which did radiate some heat to the fiberglass enclosure, so there was some minor heatsink effect, and I did some experiments with different density foams to increase the heat transfer, but concluded that the battery was just not meant for Florida summer pavement temps and pushing nearly three hundred pounds at 16 mph for 7 miles.
The new BAK45D 10s2p battery, a few hours ago, pushed us far faster for nearly 10 miles, in very hot ambient temps, and its exterior stayed under 40C, and the battery is rated to 80C.
So my overheating battery issue is basically solved, with the Tabless cells, along with them providing increased torque, topspeed, and range.
My old battery, after a run, I basically had to remove enclosure, and run fans over it for a while before being able to safely recharge it, and then not recharge it too fast.
When I'd flip the warm enclosure over, i could feel tons of heat escape, and searching with IR gun and placing Ktype thermocouples near hottest spots, revealed the extent, and safe to say the cells themselves often exceeded their 60C max operating temperature.
Battery temperature does directly affect lifespan, and performance. The Tesla Plaid in drag race mode will heat the cells, intentionally, to lower their resistance, so they can dump more power to the motors.
Since I can easily run at max throttle, I could tell whether the old battery was cool or warm or hot, by the throttle and torque available.
Extracting excessive heat from the Battery cells is something the EV makers have put a lot of time into. Pumping coolant around, and ventilation, and phase change materials are all effective ways. I kept looking at the dead air space between cells as an enemy when assembling the new BAK pack, and filled them.with Silicone.
Not the best conductor of heat but better than dead air space.
I'm lucky that my heating issue was solved with higher quality much lower resistance Tabless cells. It's nearly as hot as it gets here, and My ESC can't pull more than it does now, and Florida is not vgoing to grow hills I need to climb,.so I cant really heat the battery much more than I did Today.
The BAK45D does not run as cool as the EVE 40PL or Ampace JP40 cells either.
The EVE 50PL runs even cooler, and the Ampace JP50, and BAK50D, are not too far off from availability, and will have higher capacity, higher max discharge rates,, and should run even cooler.
Molicel.is teasing us with future cells with amazing specs,.some.of which are designed for higher operating temps and not sacrificing safety or cycle life.
Their P50B was almost impossible to get this time last year.. It is not tabless, but can be charged at 25 amps, twice that of the BAK45D. It has gone from 10$ each to 7$ recently. Product of Taiwan.
Hopefully these new super high performance cells are available soon at reasonable.prices. That topic which we cant discuss here has pushed up prices 20% or more in the last few months. The BAK45D 2 months ago was $4.75 each. I waited too long and paid 5.45$. They now are 6.85$ each.
I do want to build a new 10s1p for my mini lightweight grocery getter which has been backburnered.
My Bak45d should last far more than the 3500 miles the Dmegc did. It still works too. still good capacity. It just runs too hot, and sags too much voltage.
A few months back I measured sag. From garage to a patch of shade at full throttle, 42 volts sagged to 36.5 and I achieved 16mph.
Did the same exact test today with new BAK battery. 42v sagged to 41.2, and I achieved 21mph.
Not a totally fair comparison as BAK battery is new, was hotter, and wheel diameter is worn smaller, for more torque.
New larger hub motors were to arrive yesterday, then today. Hopefully tomorrow.
They will be smoother and more quiet. Will likely lose some.torque, but gain top speed.
Fiona.is not scared to go faster.
RE: So it begins...... Battery spot welder - sternwake - 06-19-2025
I got the new old stock 90mm Puaida motors installed.
I put larger, overkill Amass MR60 connectors on the Motors 16awg phase wires to mate to my ESC. Both come with much smaller MR30 connectors, rated for 30amps.
I had some vescs which come with 14 or 12 awg phase leads, and soldering 14awg onto MR30's would be difficult, at best, so switched to MR60's on both Vesc and motors.
I never got the Vesc to work proper so put MR60's on the other non programmable ESCs.
My handheld remote for throttle and brake, has a speedometer and odometer, and I switched the wheel size from 77mm to 90. The local radar sign was then reading 22mph when remote said 26mph.
My previous 90mm motors got submerged,and ruined, but the remote read speed perfectly with same diameter programmed into remote with those.
I never took those reliable motors apart, but they were supposed to have 10 pole pairs.
I believe these older model motors have 11, maybe 12 pole.pairs, based on the speedo reading high, but I could be wrong. I don't yet know enough about brushless motors and have no reason to take these apart just to count poles and magnets.
I went back to the radar sign and adjusted wheel size downwards until sign and remote agreed on speed.
More pole pairs should in theory have more torque, and less top speed on the same ESC/battery, and this seems to be the result. Which is good, as on a skateboard, 25mph feels so much faster than 20mph, and 28mph just starts feeling insanely fast, especially as I like.my trucks very loose.
Speedwobbles can equal street face and road rash hell, and I am not Mr PPE. Mr Barefoot fool more like it.
Fiona and I can get going uncomfortably fast with the BAK 45D battery, and these NOS 90mm motors. There is something weird with the truck geometry of the new motors too. Twitchy with lots of bump steer, that my smaller motored truck did not have.
I have 'dewedged' the truck, reducing the angle, and the amount it steers for the same amount.of deck lean, for a slight improvement in the twitchy bump steer department, but when tuned for a short turning radiuat slow speed, when going above 23mph, it becomes unstable, and I really have to be super vigilant and careful.
Fiona was asleep for our usual late evening run, so I went alone with a fully charged battery.
I rarely skate alone, and this was my fkrst solo cruuse with new battery and motors.
My 35 psi rated 8x3" pneumatic turf tires up front are only inflated to something stupid soft and draggy, like 8psi, and The radar sign still told me I was doing 28mph, and still acceleratingerating when I passed it..
I had previously gone 30mph with old Puaida motors, and battery, with a strong tailwind and all urethane wheels, the urethane having far less rolling resistance.
On the bench full throttle, no load, the speedo maxes out at 31mph,.so 28mph under load is impressive, and speaks to the low voltage drop of the BAK tabless battery at max load..
Coming back after cruising about 4.5 miles solo, riding hard and fast, the remote still said 4 of 4 bars, so 76% SOC or higher. I measured 39.79v at charge port. Left at 41.89v.
The taller and wider urethane of the motor sleeves sink into the crushed shell trail far less than my previous motors, and with more.torque,, Fiona and I can traverse it far faster than before,.or go a pleasant speed using less than half the available throttle where before full throttle was almost mandatory for much of it.
So basically I have as much torque as needed, and then some, and more.top speed than I need, and.my right calf is basically on fire before the new battery is 25% or less at about 9.5 to 10 miles of towing Fiona in her chariot at 15 to 20mph.
I need to seal the enclosure better, as it is the rainy season now,, and I have some Ideas for reducing the twitchy rear truck factor, but as far as torque, speed, and range, I have all I want.
Now there is a comfort factor. The hub motor urethane sleeves are only about 10mm thick..Sidewalk cracks are annoying.
Hub motors are disliked primarily for this reason. A regular urethane wheel of same size and durometer absorbs bumps far better, and is why bel lt drive or gear drive is preferred by enthusiasts, but also the gear reduction allows for more.torque, and adjustabikity.
I have never ridden belts.or gears, but the noise they make, is undesirable to me. Hub motors are so quiet on a smooth surface.
I'd love to have the comfort.of pneumatics and the silence.of hub motors, Therd are some.possibilities approaching that ideal, but Its money i dont have and wants vs needs.
I need.to go start and drive my Van, and dilute the old gas in the tank. Poor thing is likely all.mildewed up inside.
RE: So it begins...... Battery spot welder - rvpopeye - 06-20-2025
Too fast ?
RE: So it begins...... Battery spot welder - sternwake - 06-20-2025
It is just unstable and sketchy above 25mph or so, and i still have some throttle left.
I moved the en lozure and motors to my midsize deck today, to.g Kayaking.
I forgot the tool needed to get everything in the KayK hatch, and tied fiona uop and raced back solo to get it.
Suoer sketchy at 23 mph on the shorter board with 90mm urethane on all 4 wheels.
Got rained on, on the way back after kayaking. water got into enclosure, but i think i lucked out as battery and esc stayed dry somehow.
RE: So it begins...... Battery spot welder - rvpopeye - 06-21-2025
I wonder if sealing up the batt pack with melted wax would work ?
RE: So it begins...... Battery spot welder - sternwake - 06-21-2025
The first prebuilt esk8 I bought, has a 7s1p 18650 battery, with unknown 2200mah cells(claimed).
It has the thick blue heatshrink, on both axes, and the edges are sealed with silicone.
The only feasible water entry point would be where the silicone jacketed wire exits the pack. Nothing sticks to the silicone jacket. It is actually fairly impressive, appearing...Inside could be another story.
I use this battery now to power my Miniware TS101 soldering iron, but discharged to 25.3volts. (full would be 29.4) It can pull 82 watts at this voltage, ut onky draws what it needs to maintain the chosen temp. Heats to temp in less than 10 seconds. By far the best soldering iron i have ever used.
I have clear heatshrink covering each side of 5s2p, but it is open at the ends, and I must have nicked one side as it split during the shrinking.
I have enough blue heatshrink to cover the whole pack, but it is stiff and thick and would inhibit flex between the 10 2 parallel packs as designed. If it flexes the blue heatshrink would then stress the series connections.
Still waffling onnwhether to use it