10-09-2017, 05:29 AM
Sternwake,
I have only surfed once, in Hawaii and the first twenty minutes past can you swim was all about ethics and not being an idiot. It was a private lesson and she was a born local lady. The scariest thing for me was getting up on the board and catching a good line and thinking Holy crap I am up, HOLY HOLY crap I am going fast, followed seconds later by SHIT that is coral under me and I still going fast. As a diver, i know what that coral would have done to my exposed flesh, not to mention the destruction my porky harbour seal-like body would have done to it. She admonished me that I should have turned out of the wave before that area. It was an exhilarating experience and one I cherish and will not repeat. Not because it scared me but because I know it will take too many years to get good at it.
Life is all about learning and knowing your limitations.
I have only surfed once, in Hawaii and the first twenty minutes past can you swim was all about ethics and not being an idiot. It was a private lesson and she was a born local lady. The scariest thing for me was getting up on the board and catching a good line and thinking Holy crap I am up, HOLY HOLY crap I am going fast, followed seconds later by SHIT that is coral under me and I still going fast. As a diver, i know what that coral would have done to my exposed flesh, not to mention the destruction my porky harbour seal-like body would have done to it. She admonished me that I should have turned out of the wave before that area. It was an exhilarating experience and one I cherish and will not repeat. Not because it scared me but because I know it will take too many years to get good at it.
Life is all about learning and knowing your limitations.

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