Solar panel mounting

[MN C Van]

Really, that's an awesome illustration of just what solar can do.
Just amazing stuff, ain't it?

[TWIH]

Yes and unless I misread it and SW’s above it, tilting really isn’t all that needed provided you have enough paneling... now if you are in a fixed location for a long time then it may well be worth the climbing up and down, but if you are mobile a lot, probably doubtful...

The other thing is to have enough battery capacity so that your panels can keep charging as much as possible - therein the problem, it’s difficult to determine the proper amount of amp hour capacity as you don’t want to “waste” possible solar power production yet you also want to get your battery bank as close to full as you can. 

If you are “full” (however that’s determined) before noon, possibly add more battery storage. Just don’t mix old and new batteries... guess you’d want to split solar panels up in that case, one set charging one bank, the other charging the new batteries?  It’s always something... 

I’m finally able to play with some older glass ones, however the variance of power production with changing cloud cover conditions is a bit frustrating... as well as a less efficient PWM controller. 

[RoamingKat]

New panels are mounted. Now, I need it to stop raining so I can get a good idea of what production I can get. Last winter, the panels produced enough to bring my batteries back to full each day. I had only a day or two of cloud cover, but still enough so that I didn’t drain batteries past 70% or so.

I could probably support more batteries, but I have no room for more. 400amp batteries seems to be plenty for me, only issue is that sometimes I want to run the AC for a couple hours...I need those panels to be putting out the max they can while I do that.

[sternwake]

"wastig solar' by having more wattage than needed simply means the batteries will last longer.

Anyone who tries to only have the bateries full in late afternoon via solar instead of by noon or very early afternoon, is going to kill their lead acid batteries prematurely.

When in absorption mode, one can use the extra eletricity wisely, or not, just keep the batteries at absorption voltage until they are full.

How much wattage to amp hour capacity can be a philosophical debate.

I once carried 345Ah of capacit yand 130watts of solar, Now I have 198 watts and 90Ah of total batteryy capacity and this is plenty for me, for now.

i can still carry 345Ah. I'd rather have 345 watts

[TWIH]

If you can force feed your battery(ies) and keep them close to 100% SOC thats great. If you have a load you can safely power off your charger while it is producing thats good as well. Its usually better to practice energy conservation than ramping up capacity. All sound info. I just see the need for additional capacity for those poor solar days, we’ve been having a lot of that in the SE recently. 

The balancing act is the issue. The oft repeated 1:1 ratio seems “weak” for keeping batteries topped up, I’d think 1.5 watts to 1 amp/hour would be the preferred lower end, and 2:1 would be closer to optimal, especially in less than ideal conditions. 

If you drive more than stay stationary, your alternator can produce way more usuable bulk amperage than a solar panel can in an hour, be nice to have someplace to put that “bulk”, like a second battery.
Then let your panel(s) try to bring the bank up to full.  

I’m driving 30-35 minutes one-way daily (x5) with most of it being highway speeds to a temp job, if I had a van I’d sure want to harness that alternator amperage if I could.

[Roadtripp]

Revived thread... ...my solar panel fastening method is working for now but far from perfect. I’m using stainless steel cabinet hinges screwed to the roof rack rail. And a strap over the top of the panel when I’m driving. I could tilt up the panels but never have. And most of the time I don’t bother to take the strap off so it’s reducing the energy production severely. But if I was to stay in one spot longer it would be worth it. I would definitely take the strap offset a minimum if parked or if the batteries begin to get low. Everything revolves around the needs of the battery. 
 Wow! I’m impressed!! Driving far enough on washboard roads to wear out a metal hole would drive me nuts and my entire camper would fall to bits. I’ve been wondering what other people do to their suspension so they can drive on washboards. I think it’s got something to do with the spring/ weight ratio. And dampers ( shock absorbers) of course. Speed is a factor. Acceleration is a factor. Is that why they are called “acceleration bumps”?. It’s actually a very interesting engineering challenge. 
 Unseated of trying to reinforce my entire camper I’ve been wondering how to improve the suspension.

[B and C]

Slow down is my method. Sometimes I could walk faster than the van is going. I haven't figured out what everyone's rush is for. I weigh about 9700 Lbs wet and the suspension is stiff along with 80 psi tires in the back. My solar panels are flexible and held on with industrial strength velcro.

[Wayne49]

The washboards tend to be in places where drivers either accelerate hard or brake hard. Going into a curve, going out of a curve, approaching a stop sign and then going again. Bottom of a hill.

The only thing, also cheapest and easiest, to do, is just drive slow and smooth. You'll raise less dust that way. Try to find the smoothest paths for your tires if possible.

[RoamingRaven]

Walking is usually faster than my RV travels on a washboard. Not only do you risk your solar panels, but that tornado inside the vehicle is off the chart.

[B and C]

Washboards are on the straights too where lightly sprung vehicles drive fast.