Propane System Design Advice

[WanderingCanuck]

I'm technically competent, but have done little with pressurized flammable gas in an enclosed space. I'd like to do this part as well as can be done.

I want to carry 2 tanks, only one connected, and I can manually swap them. These will be in an enclosed compartment, vented outside. I'll need a regulator, and ability to supply gas to a stove (Coleman at this point, maybe built-in later) and a Propex/Heatsource HS2000 heater.

What should my shopping list look like? Any tips on location and/or routing? This will be going into a Transit 148 HR regular length.

Thanks

[B and C]

You are messing with high and regulated pressure. Be sure to put bushings in any hole you run lines through. Any hard lines need to be fastened securely to attaching points.

Since you are going to be replacing tanks and not filling them in place you will need to plumb with propane high pressure hoses and use an adapter similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Propane-Y-Splitte...6305&psc=1

It looks like the coleman stove can only be operated off hi-pressure (tank pressure) as it has its' own regulator built in. If this is the case a high pressure hose like this: https://www.amazon.com/4FT-High-Pressure...opane+hose

I have no idea if your furnace uses line pressure or regulated pressure. If it is low pressure, use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/GasSaf-Pressure-P...hose&psc=1

I would personally put your devices where you want them and then go to a propane supplier or plumber to get it plumbed. If you have never worked with this stuff, this is not the place to learn. You could burn your house down.

Be sure to install an RV rated propane detector near the floor and a CO detector near your sleeping quarters. A smoke alarm and fire extinguisher are not a bad addition either.

[Blacktank]

are you thinking hard lines,copper/steel or pre built flexible?

[WanderingCanuck]

In what I've already gathered, my thought was to run copper securely fixed to the van in plastic cable clips (no, not zipties). I'd go with copper all the way to the heater, as it will also be securely attached. Between the copper and stove I'd need something flexible, as with between the copper and the connected tank.

[Blacktank]

for copper you will need,pipe cutter,pipe flare,pipe bender or 90's and solder and the proper sized compression fittings

[WanderingCanuck]

You are messing with high and regulated pressure.  Be sure to put bushings in any hole you run lines through.  Any hard lines need to be fastened securely to attaching points.

Since you are going to be replacing tanks and not filling them in place you will need to plumb with propane high pressure hoses and use an adapter similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Propane-Y-Splitte...6305&psc=1

It looks like the coleman stove can only be operated off hi-pressure (tank pressure) as it has its' own regulator built in.  If this is the case a high pressure hose like this: https://www.amazon.com/4FT-High-Pressure...opane+hose

I have no idea if your furnace uses line pressure or regulated pressure.  If it is low pressure, use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/GasSaf-Pressure-P...hose&psc=1

I would personally put your devices where you want them and then go to a propane supplier or plumber to get it plumbed.  If you have never worked with this stuff, this is not the place to learn.  You could burn your house down.

Be sure to install an RV rated propane detector near the floor and a CO detector near your sleeping quarters.  A smoke alarm and fire extinguisher are not a bad addition either.

A plumber?  Seriously?  A gas-fitter, maybe... but not a plumber.

I understand and appreciate your warnings.  They are completely valid and can't be understated.  I was, however, hoping to skip some of this by stating at the outset that I'm technically competent - rather than listing all of my previous trades, certificates, and relevant work experience.  Let's assume I'm not full of BS when I say this and y'all can sleep easy not feeling guilty when I turn my van into an oversized pipe bomb.   Along with the information here, I'll be using my own head... which still works pretty good and has the last word on safety.

I thank you for the links, but I don't think that rubber lines meet my own safety threshold for long runs that may end up being hidden.  I'd like to use copper and compression fittings for the majority of the distribution.

[B and C]

Only flared connections where you attach something besides copper to copper. I have never seen compression fittings used for gas, only liquids.

You may want to go check out an RV so you can see how the industry does it. They have to build to the RVIA standards.

[WanderingCanuck]

There's a compression fitting supplied with the HS2000, and the installation manual talks about using them on other plumbing as well. I was less clear on is what sort of regulator I'd need. The manual says not to use an adjustable type, but doesn't say what _to_ use. It does state the pressure at the gas inlet, but I'll have to check what that is again. Also I wasn't sure the best way to do the short run from the tank with flexible line to a regulator that's attached to the van and the hard supply to heater and (maybe) stove. I'm fairly sure I don't want to be running high pressure any farther than it needs to go. Maybe this means the regulator would be right at the tank. Seems that would be the safer bet.

[Blacktank]

the lines in my rv are steel with compression fittings

lpg=liquefied petroleum gas

[rvpopeye]

All my RVs have 3/8 copper and flare fittings to the appliances.
From the mounted tank , steel pipe NPT to the regulator and then up under the rig and the 3/8 copper taps off that.
You'd need something flexible at the tank/regulator instead. So low pressure , I tapped off the pipe before the regulator for high pressure to a BBQ , Coleman etc.

I'm thinking you could find everything at Tractor Supply , HomeD , Lowes , Tru Value , Ace , etc.......Or a gas distributor type place if there's one in the area.

Just use gas rated tape on the pipe threads and check for leaks when you get done.....