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Will this set my van on fire?
#31
My Dc to DC laptop charger is my biggest RFI noise maker whaich actually annoys me on those two tv channels, but my inverter powering the original AC to DC power brick is significantly worse in terms of RFI and powr consumption..

The Faraday cage helps, as do the ferrite chokes( very slightly) but if the tv signal itself is attenuated somewhat due to weather or the angle of my antenna, then the only solution is unplugging the transformer form the laptop and running it on battery power, which only lasts for about 45 miutes these days, or watching a different Tv channel not affected by the power brick.

I have some cardboard window panels covered wit a few layers of reflextix for my side windows. if I place these between my TV and the Dc to DC transformer and as much of the wire to and from laptop as I can, it does help somewhat, sometimes.

My cheapo PWm charge controllers get audibly noisy after it reaches absorption voltage. I can hear it start whining when it reaches absorption voltage and starts backing off the current to maintain thei constant voltage. I do have a 12v tv in the workshop powered from the same battery as the charge contrller is on,. It has a big antenna , and I almost never have the tv on when the sun on the panel with the controller making noise so I have not seen it knock out the stations more or less than my MPPT controller in my van does.

My MppT charge controller does not noticeably affect my TV, but it did when it was physically located closer to the tv and when stations were analog, and i could see diagonal stripes move across the screen. I usually don't do much TV watching when the sun is up though. Dont listen to Am or Fm radio as advertisements renew my contempt for too many things.

Quad shield rg-6 cable, I've often wondered if they sell that type of braided overlapping shielding one can slide over a wire, like my laptop dc to dc transformer input and output wires.

I've got some plastic stuff for covering/stealthifying and protecting wires on a recent project, not on my van, that expands and contracts kind of like a chinese finger trap over wire inserted into it s ends. If this were metal, and slid over power wires, and grounded , it could likely reduce rfi emitted from power wires, but i assume you Ham guys would be all over it if it were effective and easily available and not exorbitantly priced.

[img] https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/...L1000_.jpg[/img] Takes a while to insert wire through it. First time i used it, but i got to say I like it in terms of protecting and hiding red and black wires against a white background.

I wonder about that braided steel hose like used on toilet tanks or perhaps some fllexible brake lines hoses, if that would be effective reducing rfi and not be too obtrusive with power wires running through it.

The wires between my shunt and battery monitor are supposed to be twisted pair, to reduce RFI from affecting the readings. It seems to eb effeective, but when the twisted pair wires run nearby other wires i wrapped both in that aluminum tape and try to have them cross at 90 degree angles where they have to cross other wires.





Years ago I needed some vaccuum line, to run between egr solenoid and egr valve and the store did not have any dedicated vaccuum line, but the clerk said we have fuel line in that inner diameter andf cut off the length i asked for. When they rang it up I was like no way am i paying that much for some vaccuum line. Perhaps it was 150PSI fuel injection hose or something. Then an older clerk skolded the guy and busted out the windshield wiper hose whose price was tolerable.
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#32
Hey folks. Just wanted to conclude this thread with a photo of the (more or less) finished battery bank. Only real addition is that I connected some LED lights to the fusebox but I need another fuse to turn them on while the fan is on. Some of the mounting is a bit janky and I took off the front of the battery housing so you could see it, but other than that it's done. The screws that mount the battery to the housing also go through the wood floor of the van chassis. 

The $40 battery monitor works surprisingly well, but we'll see how long it actually lasts. Thanks again to everyone. Hopefully this thread will be instructive to other DIY battery designers as amateur as me.


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#33
Seeing those items mounted upside down is driving me batty.   Undecided  (Nothing dangerous about it)  Get some red and black tape to mark the power and ground wires.  

Otherwise it looks great.   Big Grin
Compared to parenting, Cat herding is less complicated
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#34
Looks good.

I was trouble-shooting an RV here in Sturgis...the solar was not working. The current owner bought the rig as is, with 200 watts of solar and assumed it was working fine, and was reassured by the previous owner and a relative it was working fine.

Nope. Not working at all. Sick RV presents with no input while in full sunlight. Low battery voltage, buzzing sounds. Transfer switch for genset not working. Only way to boost house batteries is to idle main engine. Current owner replaced house batteries a few days prior to driving to the rally, because they were dead. Now the brand new batteries are dying and he saw all my solar stuff and asked for help.

I found several things wrong...heavy inverter cables passing thru metal openings with bolt heads cutting into the insulation on the positive side. Rigid copper wire used between the solar controller and the batteries.. NO fuses there at all. Cables to MC4 connectors loose and flopping all over the roof. Rigid copper wires inserted into solar controller were ALL loose and oxidized. Intermittent connections. The weirdest thing about the entire install was that it NEVER worked. I found the MC4 connectors on the roof had been assembled incorrectly. The copper strands were folded back along the insulation, and there were NO metal sleeves and pins in 2 of the branch MC4 connectors.

This thing was a rolling mess, and a possible firetrap. NOW I have seen first hand, the mess people can leave when they don't know what they are doing.

The owner is damn lucky there was no fire...

Somebody needs to come up here during the rally and make some money working on solar for all these thousands of RVs in the Black Hills during the rally.
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#35
looks like it will work,now outlets,i use a rigrunner with anderson power poles but there are usb/ciggy plug you can buy among others
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#36
The circuit breakers you used.. check them for excessive heat when the Iota is feedng the depleted battery and the same when the solar at noon is also feeding depleted batteries.

None of your wiring eems to address vibration.

The wires into the solar controller should realy be prevented from moving. Vibrations you yourself cannot feel at 65 mph can have those wires vibrating and weakening the solder joints on the circuit board where those wires feed into the controller.
really you will save yorself a WTF!!! Arrggghhhh!!!! tool throwing moment in the future, if you secure those specific wires against any potential vibration now

it looks like you can turn that battery fuse upside down, and perhaps get the lid covering the battery.

T,hose fuses are also 15$ or so to replace. Might want to protect t,hat one wire that appears to be touchng the body panel right before your battery switch on the top left.

The screws holding the battery down, are they just sheet metal screws, or are they machine screws with nuts and washers on the underside?
[-] The following 2 users say Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • rvpopeye (08-06-2019), frater secessus (08-11-2019)
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