Code name “Baby”

[GypsyDogs]

Ok… new shop put her up.. poked around again.. discovered that the grease fitting looked like she hadn’t been lubed in a decade, gave her some grease..
and now she is super smooth and quiet..
And all this without charging me anything!!

They have earned my business- and a warm recommendation!

[Kyz]

That's so awesome

[rvpopeye]

That news feels much better !

The stress probably didn't take more than a year or so off your life.........

[GypsyDogs]

Been forever...  too much going on, issues logging in, etc...

turns out--- after they 'fixed it' the issue came right back.  
when I took van back- they tried to write it off as "an acorn in the wheel" or "a socket in the fender" or "it's an old van, they make noises" or some such crap... 
---that it was the idler arms..

Gee the old lady actually was Right, there was something Wrong...  

Still babying the slow transmission leak..  Hope to- in a few months, once they turn off the freakin' summer furnace, re-set the pan/gasket.. AGAIN..  this will be pan drop.. I think number 4 in a handful of years..  grrrrrrrr

And now will also be chasing a slow coolant leak, starting with a new rad-cap.. and checking hoses...

Need to find a new speed selector knob.. (or just ghetto in a couple switches) for the roof vent.. as the existing one just kinda spins a ways before doing anything.. lol

And the idea for replacing my headlight switch isn't going to work.. because there is a ridiculous wad of complexity behind the dash.. that can't be merely retrofitted with a toggle..  sigh.

Backup lights don't work either..   the P/N fuse keeps popping, so I can only assume it is the sensor in the transmission that has gone fffftt.  So I am trying to work on a set of aftermarket backup lights on a toggle..  but too freakin' hot..  so, for now, I am just trying to use pull-through parking spaces and "enjoying" getting more steps in..  lol

And K'ne is mostly physically healthy.. age/arthritis/etc.. but her mental state..  she is having difficulty, she sundowns, she will startle for no reason, essentially dog dementia..    I am making accommodations for her limitations.. and we go from there...

[rvpopeye]

Good to hear from you !
Sorry 'bout the log in issue ! I'll join you in hoping Kyz spots your post as I have no idea lol .

Wad of complexity might not be as bad as it looks or maybe it is ? Headlight switches have quite a few switching functions so basically just a bunch of circuits that will each need it's own switch if the original is breaking down internally .
Backup lights and P/N fuse could be a number of things . I feel your confusion . Go at it one thing at a time .
A box with a row of switches might be part of the solution .
A wiring diagram should unravel at least some of the mess once you know the wire color/markings .

Tranny pan leaks after multiple tries sucks rocks , A fresh pan with no dents etc.could cure it but try silicone gasket with some set up time before assembly first . ...and as always keep yer mouth closed and goggles for eyes when underneath looking up !

No easy one word solution but you have the skills you'll need !

I have no idea if anyone else is on the forum anymore without checking one at a time for last visit dates but Sternwake and I are still here just about daily .

Sending you some of my heat which is hopefully cooler than your heat .

[GypsyDogs]

Complexity is NOT what I can deal with right now... I don't have the bandwidth for deep diagnostics and crunchy thinking...
Way too many things going on in my world right now...

(and I think you can sort the member list by "last access/post".. maybe)

[GypsyDogs]

Complexity is NOT what I can deal with right now... I don't have the bandwidth for deep diagnostics and crunchy thinking...
Way too many things going on in my world right now...

(and I think you can sort the member list by "last access/post".. maybe)

And it Was a fresh -deeper- pan with drain plug.... (and No that is not where the leak is coming from..) it is at the gasket... sigh.

[sternwake]

I had a lot of gasket leaking issues when I used cork gaskets.

I also had issues with the bolts loosening up on their own, and retightening them would be a very temporary fix.

I wound up dropping the pan again, even after switching to rubber gaskets, because the bolts kept loosening.

I had to let it dip for a long long time, until there were no more drips, and then use Q tips and rubbing alcohol to clean out the bolt receptacles in TX housing, and completely degrease the bolts themselves. The rubber gasket actually holds the bolts, making aligning the gasket and pan far easier, and I am pretty sure I used a dap of red or blue locktite on the cleaned threads.

Overtightening is a curse on TX pan gaskets and it is also too easy to not tighten them so they evenly compress the gasket. I used a 1/4" extension with the right size socket and just slowly finger tightened the corners and then followed each bolt in 1/8" turns round and round until it was as tight as my fingers could tighten, and then busted out the 1/4 inch ratchet and turned them again no more than 1/4 turn.

This method worked, no more pan seepage, but there is some very slow seepage from around the speedometer hole which makes it look like the pan is leaking and I have chosen the Ignore it route.

I don't like dripping any Fluids, but humans are so thoroughly poisoning the planet and the atmosphere, my contributions are minimal in comparison to Redhat Joe Sixpack, who is proud of it.

[GypsyDogs]

I had resorted to metal core gasket (lube locker) ... and it STILL leaked...
After making Both surfaces shiny, and cleaning with alcohol.. (and let absolutely ALL the residual fluid stop to make a 'clean' mating surface...) and loose tightening for 24 hrs, then snugging to spec (with torque wrench to factory spec...) to try to keep the LL bead strip super happy.., then filling..
.....aaaand leak.... fml.

may try your method.. next pan-drop.. (sigh- because transmission fluid (with deep pan) is So inexpensive NOT)

at this time- I am just monitoring leak and replenishing as necessary... and glad for the metal-core gasket.. as it shouldn't be able to Blow Out- like the minivan one did.. LOLOLOLOL

and I am eyeing the Permatex AT gasket/seal stuff.. and seriously contemplating reusing the LL gasket (they say you Can.. as long as it is not visibly damaged..) and trying again... can't be much worse than it is now..

[GypsyDogs]

I had resorted to metal core gasket (lube locker) ... and it STILL leaked...
After making Both surfaces shiny, and cleaning with alcohol.. (and let absolutely ALL the residual fluid stop to make a 'clean' mating surface...) and loose tightening for 24 hrs, then snugging to spec (with torque wrench to factory spec...) pattern/crissycrossy.. to try to keep the LL bead strip super happy.., then filling..
.....aaaand leak.... fml.

may try your method.. next pan-drop.. (sigh- because transmission fluid (with deep pan) is So inexpensive NOT)

at this time- I am just monitoring leak and replenishing as necessary... and glad for the metal-core gasket.. as it shouldn't be able to Blow Out- like the minivan one did.. LOLOLOLOL

and I am eyeing the Permatex AT gasket/seal stuff.. and seriously contemplating reusing the LL gasket (they say you Can.. as long as it is not visibly damaged..) and trying again... can't be much worse than it is now..