So it begins...... Battery spot welder

[rvpopeye]

EVE 35v testing winner  so noted ! THX for posting  .

I'm noticing much more range (2x?) if I can just make myself go slower.  lol I did say if  !

[sternwake]

21700's are the way to go, if they fit.

The Eve 50E, compared to Eve 35v, has 50% more capacity and CDR for the same or lesser price.

EVE is not as recognizable name as Samsung, Panasonic , or LG, but their cells basically outperform the known brands equivalent, for a better price. Samsungs always seem to run a few degrees C hotter.
The Eve 58E is the 21700 energy cell to beat at the moment with 5700mah minimum , and 16.7amp CDR.

https://diy500amp.com/products/eve-inr21...ttery-cell

I almost ordered one for my 21700 Armytek headlamp, but I dont need more cells for.it. It came with a Samsung 50g, wrapped in an Armytek label. I bought a Samsung 50s, which is a 5000mah 25 amp CDR cell, kind.of a hybrid energy/power cell, and have an Extra BAK45D for it too, now.

The BAK would run by far the coolest, but the led itself makes the most heat and will cause thermal throttling. At low output the 50s would run the longest. The 50g is kind of a waste of space. Not very inexpensive, not very High CDR, only rated for 4900mah at 0.2C.

It is like manufacturers gave up on trying to improve the 18650 format for a while and only recently returned to it, and I think power tools brands are behind it. They want a 5s1p 18v nominal pack which can do what 5s2p, or even 3p was required for the output levels desired

The Ampace JP30 power density is damn impressive.

If you are bored check out this Dewalt comparison video. Samsung 20r cells vs Ampace JP30.

At 28amps continuous the original Dewalt pack overheats delivering 3.5Ah of its 4ah. The Ampace.pack delivers over 6AH, and stays cooler, and maintains higher voltage the whole discbarge.



My one flashlight needs a buttontop 18650. I have some buttons I can weld onto my JP30, but they are 0.2mm nickel plated steel, which has 10x the resistance of copper.

I want to weld some 0.2mm copper strip under the button, the fold it.over the button and weld it again. I was working out the welder settings when sweat dripped into my eyeball and I fled the garage. Now my back has acted up, and I've a thousand.other things to do, that are far less interesting.

Slowing down and accelerating slower really helps range on my Eak8 too.

My remote has 4 speed modes. 3 and 4 have same top speed, but 4 has nearly twice the torque.

I can also get more range, and torque, and likely top speed whsn towing too, by switching back to 90mm motor sleeves, rather than 105mm, but the 105s ride softer and smoother.

[sternwake]

One other observation regarding speed and range, is that If I roll at just walking speed, behind Fiona as she sniffs and squats, the battery on my return is significantly lower than expected compared to if I had been blasting the same distance at 20mph. The motors also a will be hotter, along with the ESC.

I believe at low speeds the ESC is far less efficient, especially with direct drive/hub motors.

All electric motors have an rpm range where they are most efficient, and the ESC design itself likely plays a huge part too.

On esk8 they say the best way to increase range is push to start, rather than throttle up from a standstill. With Ebike I guess pedaling upto speed assisting the motor is easy enough.

[rvpopeye]

Going to bring IR thermometer to check differing motor temps vs speeds and I'll try the push start method tomorrow too.

[sternwake]

Is the motor painted flat black?

Here are some parts to make your own portable charger using a Ryobi 18v nominal battery as the source.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ryo...&_osacat=0

This V booster is rated at 10 amps output.
It needs to be attached to a heatsink.
Both the potentiometers are backwards.

Turn CW to decrease, CCW to increase voltage and amperage. Set output voltage unloaded, to just below battery voltage on initial hookup, so that not much current can flow. Then adjust amperage to very low levels. Use inline wattmeter on output. After choking max amperage to low levels, disconnect, then raise output voltage unloaded to the same as your ACDC charger the Ebike came with. Then plug booster back into battery, then dial up the amperage as high as you desire, upto that 10 amp output limit.

I am pretty sure the Ryobi batteries have the low voltage disconnect in the battery, rather than the tool, but if you see it discharge the battery below 12.5v, then that is not good. Some powertools will drain the cells to 2v each, 10v total, under load and this then rebounds above 2.5v when it shuts off, but this strategy to drive that last screw does so at the cost of battery longevity, and safety.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/376483022051?_t...NTGGA808J3

These wattmeters are only good to 60vDC.

I like to use one on input and output side initially, then only output.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=gtp...&_osacat=0

I have tested this booster's voltage, when set to 41v, and 250 watts output, and abruptly removed battery. The voltage did not shoot to 46v before settling, like can happen with my other V boosters when removing the load at high amperage outputs.

From a healthy 4AH, 72 wH ryobi battery, you should be able to return about 60 to 65WH into your ebike battery and that should be good for a few miles of added range. I have done this a lot with my Ridgid 18V batteries. Since you have a higher battery voltage, if you have two Ryobi batteries, wire them in series for 36v nominal input to the Vbooster and it will be more efficient and stay cooler.

[sternwake]

Is the motor painted flat black?

Here are some parts to make your own portable charger using a Ryobi 18v nominal battery as the source.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ryo...&_osacat=0

This V booster is rated at 10 amps output.
It needs to be attached to a heatsink.
Both the potentiometers are backwards.

Turn CW to decrease, CCW to increase voltage and amperage. Set output voltage unloaded, to just below battery voltage on initial hookup, so that not much current can flow. Then adjust amperage to very low levels. Use inline wattmeter on output. After choking max amperage to low levels, disconnect, then raise output voltage unloaded to the same as your ACDC charger the Ebike came with. Then plug booster back into battery, then dial up the amperage as high as you desire, upto that 10 amp output limit.

I am pretty sure the Ryobi batteries have the low voltage disconnect in the battery, rather than the tool, but if you see it discharge the battery below 12.5v, then that is not good. Some powertools will drain the cells to 2v each, 10v total, under load and this then rebounds above 2.5v when it shuts off, but this strategy to drive that last screw does so at the cost of battery longevity, and safety.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/376483022051?_t...NTGGA808J3


This booster can be had slow boat for under 10$, this link just has a better description.
These wattmeters are only good to 60vDC.

I like to use one on input and output side initially, then only output.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=gtp...&_osacat=0

I have tested this booster's voltage, when set to 41v, and 250 watts output, and abruptly removed battery. The voltage did not shoot to 46v before settling, like can happen with my other V boosters when removing the load at high amperage outputs.

From a healthy 4AH, 72 wH ryobi battery, you should be able to return about 60 to 65WH into your ebike battery and that should be good for a few miles of added range. I have done this a lot with my Ridgid 18V batteries. Since you have a higher battery voltage, if you have two Ryobi batteries, wire them in series for 36v nominal input to the Vbooster and it will be more efficient and stay cooler.

[rvpopeye]

I might just have to try that !
And yes , of course it's black,,,good point . Night testing for temps.

[sternwake]

As I was modifying my Enclosure to accept the Booster on a much more massive heatsink, I kept thinking how simple it was just to carry the 7s2p loose, and use my 150 watt booster which has a 24v fan attached.

And honestly the Ridgid batteries are even easier to use, but better to boost from 25.2v nominal than 18, and the 7s2p battery has no other purpose now, so why abuse the Ridgid batteries unnecessarily.

Ryobi does have a tabless battery that uses Ampace JP40 cells, and is the least expensive tabless power tool battery pack, according to torque test channel anyway. I only have a weak Ryobi leaf blower, that I often use on a Ridgid 4.0ah battery. Ryobi in left hamd, makitain right, depending on which direction I am walking.

I linked the 10 amp output white booster, but this one accepts a delta 24v 50mm fan nicely and has no issues at 150 watts output, its max rating. I have pushed it to 170 but it makes a high pitched noise saying it is unhappy.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/205216488753?_t...2ETQN424Y8

this 24v fan handles 29.4v no issues, and it perfectly bridges its heatsink

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266680740327?_s...BMiofCgZhm

I have 2 of these 400 watt boosters too,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/357426135575?_t...WKJT43GW0A

and they work fine, but the voltage potentiometer is backwards, and if I mounted a fan, that pot would be difficult to access, as would the amperage potentiometer. They have no lights or anything to say that they have power. The 150 watt blue one has 3 pots. The third pot controls the current where the red light turns green. I set mine at 0.25 amps. It is my primary esk8 charger boosting from my Deka GC-2's held at 13.6v by my adjustable voltage powermax power supply. At 13v input the 24v fan is a bit slow, and it gets toasty at 150 watts output, but I usually charge 80-100 watts and that's fine.

I don't know what kind of charge port your ebike uses, but the ryobi 'power wheels adapter' and a booster can be an easy inexpensive solution to charge your bike at a further away half way point, and not have to worry about running out of juice..

There are plenty of inexpensive 7s or 10S batteries you can use as the source too, and not have to cycle the ryobi's, but that 24v fan linked will likely not handle 8s+ voltages

[rvpopeye]

It uses a generic barrel connector like most of the older laptops all had.
2 amps max.
There might be a st60 in the frame between the controller and battery though.Not ready to deal with that tightly packed rat's nest just yet !
The battery has a proprietary blade type push in type inside the frame.
I saw a guy on a YT vid that adapted a large aH Lifepo4 batt. Think it was a 12v ? but they do build 48v ones IIRC , heavy though.

OOoo like the looks of that 400 w'er !

[sternwake]

The barrell connectors are usually 5.5x 2.1mm, although there is a 5.5 x2.5. I have adopted the latter for my 36v nominal stuff but left the 25.2v stuff as 5.5 x 2.1.

Their amperage ratings vary from as little as 3 , upto 10 amps.

I am using some DIY 90 degree 5.5 x 2.5 and I think 16awg, but it might be 18 silicone jacketed wire.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274997037645

I solder the input and output wires to the bottom of the PCB, as the screw terminals suck donkey butt.

Gotta protect the underside.from.shorts.

The 400 watter xoes work pretty well, but my favorite is the blue 150 watter by far.

I have an extra white one and a heatsink for the workbench,just have not gotten around to putting APP's and tbicker wire on it and then drilling and tapping the heatsink for M3 screws.

These are of course are great for charging from 12vdc nominal.

I dont know.if Ebimez rely on thde BMS, or if they use a charge port fuse.

I have blown many charge port fuses being dumb.

I soldered a LP mini fuse on my portBke charger's cbarge port, but my Esk8 batteriez have an inline LP mini fuse holder. The 58v rated fuses are harder to come by. 32v easy.