11-15-2023, 09:24 PM
Probably not, not unless one breaks.
The mini 350 penny board is pretty thin and light, and flexible. the plywood0 layers are laid up in form, and press which induces the concave and a kicktail.
The 700 is a thicker deck also with concave and kicktail.
My long push skate is a long flat piece of finnish baltic birch pkylwood, nearly aircraft grade.
Im debating putting a motor on the long skate , but it is so flexible any enclosure near the middle could slam pavement on a hard turn.
Id noticed that the 700 riderless, woukd remain slightly leaned over from the last turn, and thus not track straight.
I got softer bushings, shortys doh dohs. the name rung a memory bell,
New bushings not as tall as originals, so I cut 1/8" from each original bushing, stacked them with the dohdobs, reassembked, stood onnthe skate deck and had the complete range of truck motion avaikable, and when i steo off boarx it straightens itself out to neutral.
In fact, the trucks move so much the wheels could hit the deck, and as suspected, they do not align with the cutouts.
So i moved the trucks apart 1/2 inch each, widening the wheelbase by an inch.
only had to drill 2 new holes on each truck, not 4.
There is epoxy curing inside all the holes, sealing the plywood edges, but the unused ones were taped off from below and a column of epoxy allowed to soak in deep to the end grains, hopefully returning some strength to the deck.
Before drilling the new holes, a straight edge revealed the factory holes were not square and parallel, which causes it to turn better in one direction and worse in the other. ever see a rear axle be off a bit and cause a vehicles rear tires to be off to left or right of front tires. severe misalignment, well this skate had the same.
Emphasize past tense.
It should really ride tons better when i reassemble it. Perfectly aligned, with new bushings which allow full range of movement, and return to zero on their own.
Also, being softer sbould absorb more road vibration.
The cupped washers which cradle these bushings, had super sharp squared off edges.
They are now rounded into a smooth radius and should not shred the new bushings. They shoukd also.provide more progressive resistance, when nearing full tilt.
I did have some heatsinks, the type which attach to vertical tranzistors on circuit boards wjth a small machine screw.
i made their backaides perfectly flat and smooth, and JB welded 6 of them to the aluminum plaTe heatsink that attaches to the ESC.
The bottom of this ESC was also not flat.
Now aluminum plate, and bottom of the ESC, are totally flat and will mate far far better than how it left the factory.
The finned heatsinks i added likely quadruple the surface area for airflow to dissioate the heat generated by the mosfets.inside the ESC, which should greatly extend their lifespan, and reliability and maybee oerformance and efficiency.
Hopefully this cleans up the jerky hot brakes and inconsistent acceleration when i hot
Rerouting the wiring inside enclosure might also help reduce the jerkyness when accelerating and braking, but if not, im getting a new ESC.
the one HUB motor which feels a bjt less crisp when spun by hand, well each motor's squared axle fits in a square receptacle, and is then covered by a thick steel plate, which is held in place with 4 aluminum screws, that thread into the cast aluminum truck.
One of the screws on iffy motor, is off at an angle. does not appear to be stripped, or loose, but i am not taking it off, to satisfy curiosity, as it likely will strip if i do.
These screws loosening and stripping, were mentioned in almost every 1 start review on Amazon.
I never got a response from the outfit regarding the suspect motor, so i might have to write a detailed negative Amazon review , with pictures, and see if i get a response then.
Squeaky wheel wants a new dual hub motor truck.
This one screw off at an angle, has a gap under the head on one side, I might stuff some JB weld in that gap, to spread the load of the screw bead across the steel plate.
Pics in next post
The mini 350 penny board is pretty thin and light, and flexible. the plywood0 layers are laid up in form, and press which induces the concave and a kicktail.
The 700 is a thicker deck also with concave and kicktail.
My long push skate is a long flat piece of finnish baltic birch pkylwood, nearly aircraft grade.
Im debating putting a motor on the long skate , but it is so flexible any enclosure near the middle could slam pavement on a hard turn.
Id noticed that the 700 riderless, woukd remain slightly leaned over from the last turn, and thus not track straight.
I got softer bushings, shortys doh dohs. the name rung a memory bell,
New bushings not as tall as originals, so I cut 1/8" from each original bushing, stacked them with the dohdobs, reassembked, stood onnthe skate deck and had the complete range of truck motion avaikable, and when i steo off boarx it straightens itself out to neutral.
In fact, the trucks move so much the wheels could hit the deck, and as suspected, they do not align with the cutouts.
So i moved the trucks apart 1/2 inch each, widening the wheelbase by an inch.
only had to drill 2 new holes on each truck, not 4.
There is epoxy curing inside all the holes, sealing the plywood edges, but the unused ones were taped off from below and a column of epoxy allowed to soak in deep to the end grains, hopefully returning some strength to the deck.
Before drilling the new holes, a straight edge revealed the factory holes were not square and parallel, which causes it to turn better in one direction and worse in the other. ever see a rear axle be off a bit and cause a vehicles rear tires to be off to left or right of front tires. severe misalignment, well this skate had the same.
Emphasize past tense.
It should really ride tons better when i reassemble it. Perfectly aligned, with new bushings which allow full range of movement, and return to zero on their own.
Also, being softer sbould absorb more road vibration.
The cupped washers which cradle these bushings, had super sharp squared off edges.
They are now rounded into a smooth radius and should not shred the new bushings. They shoukd also.provide more progressive resistance, when nearing full tilt.
I did have some heatsinks, the type which attach to vertical tranzistors on circuit boards wjth a small machine screw.
i made their backaides perfectly flat and smooth, and JB welded 6 of them to the aluminum plaTe heatsink that attaches to the ESC.
The bottom of this ESC was also not flat.
Now aluminum plate, and bottom of the ESC, are totally flat and will mate far far better than how it left the factory.
The finned heatsinks i added likely quadruple the surface area for airflow to dissioate the heat generated by the mosfets.inside the ESC, which should greatly extend their lifespan, and reliability and maybee oerformance and efficiency.
Hopefully this cleans up the jerky hot brakes and inconsistent acceleration when i hot
Rerouting the wiring inside enclosure might also help reduce the jerkyness when accelerating and braking, but if not, im getting a new ESC.
the one HUB motor which feels a bjt less crisp when spun by hand, well each motor's squared axle fits in a square receptacle, and is then covered by a thick steel plate, which is held in place with 4 aluminum screws, that thread into the cast aluminum truck.
One of the screws on iffy motor, is off at an angle. does not appear to be stripped, or loose, but i am not taking it off, to satisfy curiosity, as it likely will strip if i do.
These screws loosening and stripping, were mentioned in almost every 1 start review on Amazon.
I never got a response from the outfit regarding the suspect motor, so i might have to write a detailed negative Amazon review , with pictures, and see if i get a response then.
Squeaky wheel wants a new dual hub motor truck.
This one screw off at an angle, has a gap under the head on one side, I might stuff some JB weld in that gap, to spread the load of the screw bead across the steel plate.
Pics in next post
![[-]](https://vandwellerforum.com/images/collapse.png)