So it begins...... Battery spot welder

[sternwake]

I need to drill and tap my heatsink for the white Voltage  booster but I wired it up.
   

I removed the 18 awg leads and replaced with 10awg on the input, 12 awg on the output.

I used an XT90 connector on the input, so that I can use a  XT90s antispark from the donor battery.

This booster will cause a big spark when hooked up to power, which can destroy the connector with repeated sparks, like when hooking up an inverter, as the capacitors charge up.

The xt90s with the green bits has a capacitor between the  bullet receptcle contact on the positive pole that allows one to slowly charge the capacitors and thus prevent the spark.

There have bee  a few times where I forgot to charge my Esk8 and 150 watts was too slow, so I thought it was about time to get the 420 watt booster available for duty.

This white booster says  10v is minimum input voltage.  thats 3.33v per cell on using my 3s4p 222 wh battery.  Leaves a fair amount of watt hours on the table.

Hoping less than 10v inout  does not destroy booster.

My other boosters spark, but not too badly and I just use APP connectors on them.

These white ones are set at 18v output from factory. but the current limit potentiometer was well over 6 amps.  Remember the potentiometers are ccw to increase and CW to decrease both voltage and amperage.

Set output voltage to just above the battery voltage, not the full charge voltage on iinitial run. Then dial down amperage, then disconnect battery and dial voltage to desired level at or near full charge voltage with no load on it.

Then plug it back into battery and dial up desired amperage.

Failure to be cautious can smoke the booster, or something more expensive and hard to replace.  
The voltage pot above 36v is super touchy. 
Dialing in 42v exactly unloaded is kind of hard, and it gets more difficult as one approaches 60v.