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Tales from a Ventilation Lunatic
   

My sub3$ 150 watt voltage booster resides within this housing.  I can twist the pot and get anywhere from battery voltage, upto 32 volts.  Its got anderson powerpoles for easy attachment to a battery and device needing extra voltage above battery voltage. On the output it has a 3 pin outklet to power a 3 pin computer fan.  I should have used a 4 pin connector as a 3 pin can still be used in a 4 pin receiver. 

 The 12vdc 60x15mm fan just visible in the right top, with its screw legs, increases speed upto 27 volts, but above that voltage it slows down and starts making funny noises.

They sell 300 watt, 400 600 1200 and 1800 watt DC voltage boosters. I might soon own the 1800 watt one. It is about 25$.

I've used this voltage booster to EQ a group 31 battery at 16.2v, and charge both 18 and 24v nicad battery packs.  If my laptop did not have a 3rd pin inside its barrell plug I could set it to 19.2v and power my laptop with it.  I could power it with this, but it would not charge the laptop battery,. and the laptop seems to run slowly when this third pin's wire has broken on dedicated DC to DC PWR+ laptop power supplies

More silence from Noctua.  Perhaps they are on summer break.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to sternwake for this post:
  • Gapper2 (08-21-2019)
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Ok got a reply from Noctua, a new guy asking for the ticket number with the older employee who left so he can read the trial and tribulations of all my Noctua fan failures and three warranty replacements, hopefully soon to be 4 and final.

It sounds like he wants to aid troubleshooting, although voltage reaching hub is confirmation something on circuit board has failed like all previous failed noctua IPPC nf-f12 120mm fans.

Speed controlling fans via voltage manipulation shares a lot in common with dimming LED lights, something I am also dabbling with at the moment. One project has 11 194/t10 LED bulbs that each have 10 3030 chipsets. These are quite bright and are on a pwm LED dimmer and create a LOT of heat at their highest brightness. I have added a 25mm computer fan to help the LEDs from overheating, whose speed changes with the lights brightness. Unfortunately the fan makes a horrendously loud whining sound at reduced speeds.

I might be employing a buck converter that has a frequency of 150khz which I cannot hear, as opposed to 13khz which I can.

But then I lose some maximum input voltage and brightness. Not sure that will acceptable to me.

A new delivery arrived, a voltage bucker with a current potentiometer. gonna go see if the current pot can tame the 120mm screaming banshee to tolerable amperage and sound and airflow levels.
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The taming of the 120mm screaming banshee 254 cfm delta fan, has failed. Once again it would just shut off below a certain voltge, and then with the voltage pot turned high and the current pot turned down low, same result.

With voltage pot turned to just above where it would shut off then current pot reduced, it would shut off.

Just before shut off was about 6.8 volts and was drawing 1.57 amps. Still too loud at this level, and I have other fans that can move this much air for much less amperage, so it is a fail.

No taming this banshee.

So this was 6.20$ experiment failure, but no doubt I will retask this voltage bucker that has a current control potentiometer too. I believe it was designed to charge lithium cells, but I will likely only use it for fan speed or LED brightness control.

I did test it on a fan and the fan did not audibly whine at reduced speeds as it does on the PWM LED dimmer. now I wonder how much voltage it drops with a ~25 watt load running through it.

On a more sparkling note a new pair of T10 LED 'bulbs' arrived, and I believe the claimed lumen rating is less than half of actual. It is easily the brightest LED t10 led I have yet obtained, and by a significant margin.
It responds nicely to 13 khz PWM dimmer control. not sure how hot it will get at max brightness but appears to have better heatsinking and surface area than most.

https://www.amazon.com/LncBoc-Backup-Chi...way&sr=8-2
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My surplus center order arrived, and I quickly tested all 4 of the 200 cfm 120mm Jaro fans.


Wah waaaaaaa.

They vibrate pretty badly with the worst of 4 moving itself across the smooth tabletop with a 4 lb fishing weight across its top at 10.11 volts and the best not moving until 11.41 volts.

They respond very nicely to the voltage bucker, and will spin to totally silent down at 3.68 volts before shutting off. At 5 volts, through my bucker, they still move a lot of air, I would estimate around 70CFM,

At 5v, before the bucker it consumes 0.22 amps at 12.8v
After the bucker it consumes 0.56 amps at 5.0v

so basically 2.8 watts consumption at 5 volts for an estimated 70cfm. That is pretty dang good. even the weakest USB ports can handle 0.5 amps at 5v and most are rated at 1.1 or 2.1 amps. So basically one can use this 6$ Jaro fan as a USB fan.

I think most ANY USB port could handle the start up surge of this fan and be able to power it.

The 60mm fans I thought I was getting were 0.24 amps, which would be a powerful 12v fan, but the description says 0.08 amps and that is what arrived and they are quiet and not powerful and I am unsure how I will employ them, if ever.

The 2 new 24v E-papst fans have yet to be tested.
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Shortly after writing the above post, doing some more experimenting, I wound up smoking my new voltage bucker by allowing the output alligator clamps to touch each other when testing the newly arrived wattmeters accuracy at different loads. Not sure if it also smoked the new Jaro fan which was the load, I had to walk away at that point.

I am going to copy/paste a post I made in the 'releasing the magic smoke' thread.
:::::
What gets me all fired up about this, is I set up some alligator clamps so I could easily hook and unhook leds and fans. I actually made some up specifically for doing this. Usually I slide some large heatshrink over them and just shrink the one side so they cannot slide off the end of the alligator clip and keep them from touching each other.

But the heatshrink I had remaining was just tight enough in inner diameter, that the clamps would not fully clamp down on 22 awg wire with it slid over. So I used a separator in between the fairly stiff 14 awg output wires instead to keep them apart. I fired up a powerful 120 fan at full voltage output, without the 4 Lb lead fishing weight atop keeping it in place, and it sucked itself backwards and ripped out the separator and the alligator clamps touched, and that was all she wrote.

But the cursing had just begun. Hope the fan is not fried too.
I gave up testing and experimenting at that point and went and assured Fiona I was not yelling at her.

I liked that specific voltage bucker, it had a current potentiometer that worked as well as the voltage potentiometer for dimming 11 powerful leds, but would allow them to dim even further, and the 40mm fan I have on the same circuit cooling the leds would not come to a standstill at sub 4 volts on the current pot, but would on the voltage pot.
It did not whine at reduced speeds on either pot, like it does horribly on the 13khz PWM LED dimmer.

This specific bucker was only dropping 0.3v at 2 amps of load, so 12.8 in and cranked all the way up, 12.5 out.

Later on I was cleaning my workshop and found 3 older 3 amp buckers with the older LM2596 chip where the newer 5amp buckers have the XL4015 chip.

The smoked bucker had this newer chip. I forget how much the LM2596 drops, but will check soon.

I have employed several of these PWM dimmers years ago, and now some of the lights are now flickering when dimmed, which 'might' be potentiometer related, but perhaps magic electronics related. Me thinks the voltage buckers will take over the LED PWM dimmer duty, as 0.3 drop from battery voltage is not significantly dimmer and ~92% conversion efficiency is not going to kill my battery measurably sooner.

I wonder If Fiona can hear the LEDs whine when dimmed. I have had some which I could hear when dimmed via 13khz pwm dimmer, but I no longer employ those bulbs. I think 180KHZ is above her ability to hear.

Here is a link to the older 2596 3 amp voltage bucker. There are other sellers even less expensive, but this link has very good pictures.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20V-12-5-3-LM25...0008.m2219

Here is the newer 5 amp bucker I employ on my 7500 rpm 92mm delta fans:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20V-12-5-3-LM25...0008.m2219

Here is the voltage bucker with XL4015 5 amp chip that also has a current adjusting potentiometer, the one I smoked today:

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-DC-DC4-5-30V...FVKCZHBSK7

There are many variations of these devices on ebay and amazon, some come with voltmeters and ammeters, and pushbutton voltage/current adjustments. I find the prices to be kind of amazing.

Here are two of the older 3 amp models, 2 for a dollar with free shipping:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-LM2596-DC-DC...0667.m2042

Trying to buy the lm2596 chip by itself is more expensive. So is the sticky backed individual heatsinks.

It should be noted that if one is going to approach the max amperage of these devices they should have a small heatsink added to the 2596 or 4015 chips. The 5 amp link above shows a black finned heatsink added to the chip in the one pic. I hope they provide them, but if not I had bought some thicker copper ones for my 2596 buckers on my older 154 cfm delta fan. where the newer delta fan is over 3 amps and 175cfm.

I still have my very first LM2596 bucker that I used n the Silverstone AP182 fan. At battery charging voltages at max speed the hub would get too hot, stinky plastic hot, so I limited it to a maximum of 11 volts, and the fan lasted about 1.5 years, failing likely due to corrosion on circuit board from sucking in salty humid air. The bucker still works. that fan is about 1.2 amps at 11 volts at max speed and I never added a heatsink to it.

I have not had one of the voltage buckers fail, other than those that I reversed the polarity on, or touched the output leads together.
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The amazon and ebay links dont work for me....dead ends. Dunno what is going on there.

I hate when the magic smoke gets loose. Recently I was being EXTRA careful about using a shiny 8 inch metal open-end wrench to loosen the nuts on a group 24 lead acid battery. Of course, the wrench slipped and fell right across both positive and negative terminals. POP!

Luckily I hit it with enough hand movement to keep it moving and it only sparked....not welded...which would have been bad. But the wrench was plenty warm for a few minutes afterwards!

Stuff happens.
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Wondering about wandering
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sorry about that, I just copy and pasted from the other thread and I guess it does not grab the whole link.

Looks like i screwed up a few links there too.

Heres the 2596 3 amp bucker.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/20V-12-5-3-LM25...0008.m2219

and the 2 for a $ link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-LM2596-DC-DC...0667.m2042

heres the 5 amp bucker with constant current limiting I smoked today:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5A-DC-Buck-Conv...1902307820

heres another:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5A-DC-DC-Consta...SwPHxbGPs-

here's one without the current pot:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pcs-XL4015-DC...dac106d8da


hers a 5 amp boost/ buck step up/down I don't have yet:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Automatic-Co...2364863497

this one says 3 amps and later 5 amps:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3A-DC-DC-5V-12V...2477978800


This is the drok 80watt boost/bucker I use on the 24v e papst fan to run it from 7.63 to ~30 volt:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DROK-180050-DC-...SwCwxdOYl0

I now have three of those 24v e papst fans. Buhahwhahhhahhaaaaaaa.

One of those boost buckers I've ordered might find its way into my 11 bulb t-10 light, but I need to confine all the 40mm fan's flow to within the light and perhaps limit voltage to 20 or less. This is overkill as it likely is about 1800 lumens at 12.2v right now with the new led bulbs.

Fellow fan enthusiasts might want to check out this 120mm fan. 108cfm for 0.45 amps is pretty good, especially for 5$. with a 50 cent bucker above, gives speed control.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DROK-180050-DC-...SwCwxdOYl0

Had I done more research on my last surplus center warehouse order, i would have gotten a couple of these 3.50$ delta 60mm fans. 9000 rpm and 50 cfm. They are like the screaming banshee's dwarf baby sister:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical...6-1527.axd

I have an 80mm fan blowing over the head of my modified Q industries mv-50 12v air compressor, but it is a weak fan.
This is the fan which should have that task:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical...6-1528.axd

Zero chance of overheating with that fan blowing over the head.

Ventilation nut job.
I got a problem.
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(08-23-2019, 06:01 AM)sternwake Wrote: I now have three of those 24v e papst fans.  Buhahwhahhhahhaaaaaaa.


I like the two I have. I fabricated a little desk stand for one of them and use it with a cigarette lighter plug for air movement in the camper when needed. 

The other one is sitting on a shelf, I plan to cut a hole in my shed and use it for ventilation there. Funny.....someone should start a ventilation thread or something.


Angel
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Wondering about wandering
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Someone might be considered a bit deranged if they were to do so......

Just think if you were to wire a boost/buck converter inline to yor 24v papst fans, and add a remote potentiometer to it. you could choose turbo or granny speeds and still not overtax the contemptible ubiquitous and convenient ciggy plug.

A whole slew of voltage manipulation product deliveries just arrived at least one day and in several cases a week before the e mails indicated they would arrive

Three cheers for Ebay's US based sellers and the USPS.

lightweight thin aluminum Heatsinks did arrive with the one order, but they are not the same ones as pictured, they are bigger(wider & flatter) and will need some modification to be applied to the XL4015 chips squarely, but will fit diagonally as is leaving two small corners of the chip uncovered. I have thicker heavier copper ones I can use instead but they too are a bit large for this task on the 5 amp buckers.

NOw I got more products for projects than I have time and temperment to complete in anything resembling a timely fashion.

Should likely close this Effing laptop......

At some point I will begin the pictures and relate the relative simplicity of removing the potentiometer on teh circuit board of these voltage manipulators, and installing wires leading to a remote potentiometer. for easy peazy speed/brightness control.
I recall when i was reluctant to do so, and can understand the hesitancy of others to do the same.

With the 2 for a dollar price tag on the 3 amp buckers, mistakes by overheating will not hurt very much.



Got another reply from Noctua saying to expect a response early next week after he 'talks with his colleagues' regarding my slew of Noctua fan failures.

Many fans have failed in my intake shroud where these noctua's have failed, but even the cheapest( the one which came attached to my VF fridge's condenser) has lasted longer than these 'industrial' Noctua's. When that fan failed it was another case of the wires at the circuit board corroding and breaking. I likely could have repaired it as i have others but 72cfm is not acceptable when 120mm fans can move as much as 260cfm

which 120mm fan can move 260 cfm you ask???
https://www.amazon.com/Axial-Fan-San-Ace...ay&sr=8-32

this and the 120mm delta screaming banshee fan are one and 2 on the most powerful 120mm list, for now.

The 120mm 254cfm delta is much cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/LayOPO-Bitcoin-Be...=1-1-fkmr0

I might have fried the PWM speed control ability of my delta fan as it does not seem to respond to the pwm signal generator I cobbled together for it.
If the 252 cfm delta fan were to slow via its own blue PWM wire to tolerable speed noise and flow and amp draw levels, much of my fan experiments would have ended then and there.
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One more product link:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253343481366?ul_noapp=true

I saw no USbased seller for this 10 amp buck/boost vconverter, and question whether it actually boosts and bucks. The info portion of this specific link displays for a few seconds then goes black, for me, but did not always, and it specifically saif buck boost step up and step down, but that is not really a guarantee that it is indeed a buck /boost converter which shingrish marketing

If it does buck and boost, then the 10 amp rating and the large finned heatsinks should provide a nice overhead safety margin and/ or power more fans and lights.

Slow boat from China, but the last few slow boat items from china I ordered were here in little over a week.

I've got several 3 and 5 amp buck/boost modules ordered slow boat free shipping.
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