09-29-2017, 11:35 AM
About time weirdo overlord took the hint 
I should get a new gooseneck for my 92mm delta fan, mine tries to return to straight. Its just worn out but I can still aim it most everywhere by moving the spring clamp around. This fan is also powerful at higher voltage that it can push itself backwards against the gooseneck's position
I forget what kind of threaded fastener those professional microphone goosenecks take, I think the diameter is 5/8, not sure on thread count. Mine is in my workshop holding the screaming banshee aloft but I do not know how much longer I will have workshop as the termites might decide to stop holding hands on it soon and the property owner wants to rip it down.
A long while back I used to simply place a fan in my screened conversion van slider window, much like blanch's bathroom fan. I found that a significant portion of fan's flow was making a loop, and being recycled through the fan time and again, so while the fan could move say 100 CFM, perhaps it was only forcing 50% of this flow into the van. I wanted 100% air displacement or as close as possible to this.
At first I made a thin plywood shroud with two 120mm cutouts and one 180mm cutout for three fans. While I painted it black, the plywood, even though a marine plywood, did not like the moisture cycling. and the outer black painted veneer peeled off on the exterior after 2 years or so and took on a damp plywood smell that would assault me when I opened the door
I replaced it with 1/4 inch acrylic/plexiglass shroud, and painted that flat black.
The 180MM fan, currently, is the silverstone fm181, rated at ~165CFM, it has its own speed control built in. I mounted the speed control potentiometer on the fan itself. The following pic shows a spiral grate/grille on the 180MM fan. This is from the silverstone AP182, a higher RPM fan, whose airflow rating was suprisingly not much higher despite its 1.3 amp draw at max speed(2000 rpm), vs the 0.29 amp draw of the fm181 at max speed (1300 rpm).
Anyway the AP182 did not like battery charging voltages at max speed, the hub would get stinky plastic hot. I put a voltage bucker inline on it to limit it to 11 volts after the stinky plactic hub was noticed. That one overheating, and salt laden moisture caused corrosion on the circuit board killed the fan in about a year and a half. They'd doubled the price of the AP182 fan in the interim, so I got the fm181 instead for ~25$. I cut off the spiral grille of the failed ap182fan and installed it on the FM181 as a fingerguard.
The two silverstone fans mentioned above, are unfortunately, white. I removed the impeller and painted them black so they could not be easily noticed from outside. This requires a special tool to release the hub, and the paint if done sloppily can throw the impeller out of balance and cause vibration and more noise.
Thankfully the new industrial Noctua's are black body and impeller.
Anyway here is the 3 fan shroud in my driver's side rear conversion van window. I have my mattress lifted for this photo, and my black out window panels in place. The bungee cords are usually employed in how weather to hold my pillows during the day and keep the sun's heat from radiating to the interior.
With these 3 fans on medium high, I can turn off my ceiling fans, and the uppermost fan will keep spinning from the flow of these 3 other fans pushing air into the van. This could never happen without the shroud on the intake fans. That is with the side door cracked one vent open up front, and it is not as if my door seals are in good condition so I think this is a testament to the efficacy of the intake fans in the shroud in terms of air displacement.
I am really liking the industrial Noctua fans. Yesterday, I kept going into the van in midday and lowering the speed of all three intake fans until i stepped in the van and it was noticeably hotter inside than out. the crossing point was just below 1/3 of max speed on all three fans with ceiling fan combo at ~75% speed. It was 85F ambients parked in direct sun. I did not take amp measurements, but the 5 fans together were likely around 0.65 amps to keep the interior at ambinet temps with all window shades in place.
So A fan in a window/opening is good, but a shroud around the fan so that the air pushed out from it cannot do a quick 180 degree Loop and go through fan again, means it is near 100% air displacement and much more effective at exchanging air and thus keeping the interior cooler and with speed controlled fans can be done for less noise and amperage consumed to do so.
![[Image: 20170929_102906.jpg]](https://picload.org/image/dgowrrdr/20170929_102906.jpg)
All three of these fans are individually switched, the Two Noctuas are controlled by the same speed controller. I can slide the window open enough for 0, 1, 2, or all three fans depending on required/desired airflow. Even when cool at night I still like fresh air exchange and using more blankets and will leave the window open enough for just a portion of the 180Mm fan, but might not have the fan on. The ceiling fans can pull fresh air through the intake fan shroud.
My ceiling exhaust fan/mushroom vent combo will be a future post in this thread, although improvements can and likely will be made to it at some point. Unfortunately the Noctua industrial fan did not like a counterrotating feeder fan like the silverstone fm121 fan does. The Noctua has the same airflow rating as the SS fm121, but more than twice the static pressure rating. It might on its own be as effective as the fan combo I now use, but i have no easy way to actually test that, and for now further improvement is not required.
What is neat is the Noctua industrial fan nf-f12 3000 rpm fan only draws 0.3 amps at max speed, the silverstone at max speed and airflow in an unrestricted environment, draws 0.4 amps. But the Noctua in a restricted environment in front of fan should be able to move 2x as much, for 25% less amperage consumed.
Those wanting to add a very simple speed control to a computer fan can use a PWM motor speed controller or LED light dimmer. The issue is the frequency of the controller needs to be 21Khz or higher or it is likely the fan will make a whining sound at reduced speeds.
Here is a 21 Khz motor speed controller capable of handling 15 amps I had previously bookmarked
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Adjust...35&sr=8-35
There are other cheaper smaller versions capable of about 8 amps, but do keep in mind the 21Khz factor.
Controlling the speed via voltage instead is what i have done to the 92mm delta fan, but wasy speed changes require one desolder the provided potentiometer which requires a precision screwdriver to adjust and solder in wires to reach a fingerturn potentiometer, and one loses 1.2 volts on the top end and thus the fan will not run at as high a speed when desired, while the PWM motor speed controller will still allow that top end rpm and requres no soldering. My voltage controller is good for only 3 amps max and that is likely with extra heatsinking.

I should get a new gooseneck for my 92mm delta fan, mine tries to return to straight. Its just worn out but I can still aim it most everywhere by moving the spring clamp around. This fan is also powerful at higher voltage that it can push itself backwards against the gooseneck's position
I forget what kind of threaded fastener those professional microphone goosenecks take, I think the diameter is 5/8, not sure on thread count. Mine is in my workshop holding the screaming banshee aloft but I do not know how much longer I will have workshop as the termites might decide to stop holding hands on it soon and the property owner wants to rip it down.
A long while back I used to simply place a fan in my screened conversion van slider window, much like blanch's bathroom fan. I found that a significant portion of fan's flow was making a loop, and being recycled through the fan time and again, so while the fan could move say 100 CFM, perhaps it was only forcing 50% of this flow into the van. I wanted 100% air displacement or as close as possible to this.
At first I made a thin plywood shroud with two 120mm cutouts and one 180mm cutout for three fans. While I painted it black, the plywood, even though a marine plywood, did not like the moisture cycling. and the outer black painted veneer peeled off on the exterior after 2 years or so and took on a damp plywood smell that would assault me when I opened the door
I replaced it with 1/4 inch acrylic/plexiglass shroud, and painted that flat black.
The 180MM fan, currently, is the silverstone fm181, rated at ~165CFM, it has its own speed control built in. I mounted the speed control potentiometer on the fan itself. The following pic shows a spiral grate/grille on the 180MM fan. This is from the silverstone AP182, a higher RPM fan, whose airflow rating was suprisingly not much higher despite its 1.3 amp draw at max speed(2000 rpm), vs the 0.29 amp draw of the fm181 at max speed (1300 rpm).
Anyway the AP182 did not like battery charging voltages at max speed, the hub would get stinky plastic hot. I put a voltage bucker inline on it to limit it to 11 volts after the stinky plactic hub was noticed. That one overheating, and salt laden moisture caused corrosion on the circuit board killed the fan in about a year and a half. They'd doubled the price of the AP182 fan in the interim, so I got the fm181 instead for ~25$. I cut off the spiral grille of the failed ap182fan and installed it on the FM181 as a fingerguard.
The two silverstone fans mentioned above, are unfortunately, white. I removed the impeller and painted them black so they could not be easily noticed from outside. This requires a special tool to release the hub, and the paint if done sloppily can throw the impeller out of balance and cause vibration and more noise.
Thankfully the new industrial Noctua's are black body and impeller.
Anyway here is the 3 fan shroud in my driver's side rear conversion van window. I have my mattress lifted for this photo, and my black out window panels in place. The bungee cords are usually employed in how weather to hold my pillows during the day and keep the sun's heat from radiating to the interior.
With these 3 fans on medium high, I can turn off my ceiling fans, and the uppermost fan will keep spinning from the flow of these 3 other fans pushing air into the van. This could never happen without the shroud on the intake fans. That is with the side door cracked one vent open up front, and it is not as if my door seals are in good condition so I think this is a testament to the efficacy of the intake fans in the shroud in terms of air displacement.
I am really liking the industrial Noctua fans. Yesterday, I kept going into the van in midday and lowering the speed of all three intake fans until i stepped in the van and it was noticeably hotter inside than out. the crossing point was just below 1/3 of max speed on all three fans with ceiling fan combo at ~75% speed. It was 85F ambients parked in direct sun. I did not take amp measurements, but the 5 fans together were likely around 0.65 amps to keep the interior at ambinet temps with all window shades in place.
So A fan in a window/opening is good, but a shroud around the fan so that the air pushed out from it cannot do a quick 180 degree Loop and go through fan again, means it is near 100% air displacement and much more effective at exchanging air and thus keeping the interior cooler and with speed controlled fans can be done for less noise and amperage consumed to do so.
![[Image: 20170929_102906.jpg]](https://picload.org/image/dgowrrdr/20170929_102906.jpg)
All three of these fans are individually switched, the Two Noctuas are controlled by the same speed controller. I can slide the window open enough for 0, 1, 2, or all three fans depending on required/desired airflow. Even when cool at night I still like fresh air exchange and using more blankets and will leave the window open enough for just a portion of the 180Mm fan, but might not have the fan on. The ceiling fans can pull fresh air through the intake fan shroud.
My ceiling exhaust fan/mushroom vent combo will be a future post in this thread, although improvements can and likely will be made to it at some point. Unfortunately the Noctua industrial fan did not like a counterrotating feeder fan like the silverstone fm121 fan does. The Noctua has the same airflow rating as the SS fm121, but more than twice the static pressure rating. It might on its own be as effective as the fan combo I now use, but i have no easy way to actually test that, and for now further improvement is not required.
What is neat is the Noctua industrial fan nf-f12 3000 rpm fan only draws 0.3 amps at max speed, the silverstone at max speed and airflow in an unrestricted environment, draws 0.4 amps. But the Noctua in a restricted environment in front of fan should be able to move 2x as much, for 25% less amperage consumed.
Those wanting to add a very simple speed control to a computer fan can use a PWM motor speed controller or LED light dimmer. The issue is the frequency of the controller needs to be 21Khz or higher or it is likely the fan will make a whining sound at reduced speeds.
Here is a 21 Khz motor speed controller capable of handling 15 amps I had previously bookmarked
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Adjust...35&sr=8-35
There are other cheaper smaller versions capable of about 8 amps, but do keep in mind the 21Khz factor.
Controlling the speed via voltage instead is what i have done to the 92mm delta fan, but wasy speed changes require one desolder the provided potentiometer which requires a precision screwdriver to adjust and solder in wires to reach a fingerturn potentiometer, and one loses 1.2 volts on the top end and thus the fan will not run at as high a speed when desired, while the PWM motor speed controller will still allow that top end rpm and requres no soldering. My voltage controller is good for only 3 amps max and that is likely with extra heatsinking.