1990 Dodge Roadtrek

[Blacktank]

outside is where you will be sealing,most likely will have a trim piece to be removed,needs to be 100% dry,tighten any lose screws,cleaned,wiped down with alcohol or acetone,my favorite tube of goo https://www.amazon.com/Sikaflex-221-Polyurethane-Adhesive-Sealant-Cartridge/dp/B00NW5LWHA/ref=asc_df_B00NW5LWHA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312197352949&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5643717530011435066&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032901&hvtargid=pla-448590777102&psc=1

if you want pretty get a roll of blue painters tape and tape it off

[minddroool]

outside is where you will be sealing,most likely will have a trim piece to be removed,needs to be 100% dry,tighten any lose screws,cleaned,wiped down with alcohol or acetone,my favorite tube of goo https://www.amazon.com/Sikaflex-221-Polyurethane-Adhesive-Sealant-Cartridge/dp/B00NW5LWHA/ref=asc_df_B00NW5LWHA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312197352949&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5643717530011435066&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032901&hvtargid=pla-448590777102&psc=1

if you want pretty get a roll of blue painters tape and tape it off

TY! Do I remove the black rubber that is already around the high top? Then apply that product? I am looking for videos....

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[B and C]

Guess I have never looked at a 190 and how they attach the top close before. It appears the picture is sideways with the awning on the left and the window on the right, right?

Exactly what part is leaking and is it leaking inside? The rubber looking part looks good.

[sternwake]

I can't remark op Anything Roadtrek added, but I can on the Dodge platform itself.

Mine is an 1989, and there are very few differences between an 89 and a 90, and I have had mine for 18 years and no other mechanic, besides the smog check guy, has touched my Vehicle since 2008.

If you got issues with the Dodge portion, ask away, I've likely been there or read about it, and I do have a 1989 factory service manual which will be highly relevant to a 1990 as there are so few changes between these years.

One great headache preventer, is to follow the black battery cable from battery _ terminal to where it bolts to teh engine, and the firewall. remove these, file them shiny, retighten them. One should really add a 4awg cable from an Alternator mounting bolt to the nearby frame too.

if there is lots of white corrosion at the + or - battery terminal leading under the wire insulation, this will be a problem at some point, and likely sooner rather than later. If this cable looks compromised at all, you can remove it and dip it in a baking soda solution and scrub it with a wire brush and make it look like a perfectly washed sneaker, but it will still cause issues at some point. Dodge electrical Gremlins are spawned at the main battery cables at the battery, and grounds. Its just a matter of time.

[minddroool]

I can't remark op Anything Roadtrek added, but I can on the Dodge platform itself.

Mine is an 1989, and there are very few differences between an 89 and a 90, and I have had mine for 18 years and no other mechanic, besides the smog check guy, has touched my Vehicle since 2008.

If you got issues with the Dodge portion, ask away, I've likely been there or read about it, and I do have a 1989 factory service manual which will be highly relevant to a 1990 as there are so few changes between these years.

One great headache preventer, is to follow the black battery cable from battery _ terminal to where it bolts to teh engine, and the firewall. remove these, file them shiny, retighten them. One should really add a 4awg cable from an Alternator mounting bolt to the nearby frame too.

if there is lots of white corrosion at the + or - battery terminal leading under the wire insulation, this will be a problem at some point, and likely sooner rather than later. If this cable looks compromised at all, you can remove it and dip it in a baking soda solution and scrub it with a wire brush and make it look like a perfectly washed sneaker, but it will still cause issues at some point. Dodge electrical Gremlins are spawned at the main battery cables at the battery, and grounds. Its just a matter of time.

LoLoL!!!! Hi. Nice to meet you! Electrical Gremlins? LoL.... That is WHY People were afraid to drive her. LoL.... Various things out on the dash. Oil gauge, hot cold, odometer . LoL..... I FELT her run.... Runs well! Checked oil and water periodically on first trip to get her to my son's house. No problems..... So.... Start at the battery.... I will be out doing what you suggested!

How to tell which transmission I have?

Propane system was "never used" wink wink.... How to diagnose that? I NEED HEAT! LOL

High on the new CAMPER VAN!

DroooL
(Lisa)

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

[Blacktank]

outside is where you will be sealing,most likely will have a trim piece to be removed,needs to be 100% dry,tighten any lose screws,cleaned,wiped down with alcohol or acetone,my favorite tube of goo https://www.amazon.com/Sikaflex-221-Polyurethane-Adhesive-Sealant-Cartridge/dp/B00NW5LWHA/ref=asc_df_B00NW5LWHA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312197352949&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5643717530011435066&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032901&hvtargid=pla-448590777102&psc=1

if you want pretty get a roll of blue painters tape and tape it off

TY! Do I remove the black rubber that is already around the high top? Then apply that product? I am looking for videos....

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

not sure what they use to cover the seam but need to remove that,tighten any loose screws/bolts,clean,clean,clean,tape then sealant

[sternwake]

The transmission pan on an A-500 is basically square, with one corner lopped off.
The transmission pan on an A-518 is basically square, but one side has a bulge and gets wider .

Never use any transmission but ATF+4 in these transmissions and do not expect any transmission shop or quickie lube joint to actually use the correct fluid. Read Heron's transmission life optimizer thread as the TX's, especially the a-500, has a weak overdrive unit that needs to be babied.

https://vandwellerforum.com/thread-3221-...l#pid54509

Many of the gauges get 5 volts instead of battery voltage. there is a 5v regulator inside on the gauge cluster ( which is known for solder fractures) there using some 1930s technology. Way back before 3g cell phones if my pre flip phone Nokia was seeking a 2g signal, my phone would actually make my temp and fuel gauges swing up and down 1/4 of their range in a few seconds.
A new dashboard 5v regulator as Dodge installed is 28$ on RockAuto, I used a 7$ 3 amp voltage bucker when mine became questionable. 5 vs 5.5 volts is almost one hatchmark on the fuel and temp gauges. There are some grounds in the dashboard area too. Any ring terminal just attached to metal, like the dashboard under the plastic shroud, is a ground and any one of these can be suspect .

On mine the ground for the drivers side headlamps and the washer motor pump, and something else, cant remember, were all joined together on 18awg wire and then grounded to firewall behind the battery. My headlamp voltage drop was reduced 0.5 volts just by separating and upgrading these grounds, before I installed a relayed harness bypassing the headlamps switch.

It was heavily corroded and way undergauge wire size. Chrysler seemed to save money by claiming to use one wire size and then using the next size or 2 down in this era of vehicle. My factory service manual is often saying specific wire A, is supposed to be 14awg a certain color and yet it is 16 or 18, but it is that color, most of the time.

So many Dodge electrical problems are undersized wiring, and bad grounds and the big square bulkhead connector near the battery on the firewall, has 20 amp circuits using 18awg wire which is incredibly undersized if indeed 20 amps should be required to pass.

Having a good battery to firewall and battery to engine grounds are paramount. One can add a ground from battery to frame or from the same bolt that the battery to engine ground, to the frame. All grounds on any vehicle can become problematic after 29 years. Sometimes removing them completely to wirebrush all mating surfaces is not practical, Sometimes loosening them and spraying them with some Caig DeOxit d5 or D100 and retightening can make them behave properly again.

My engine computer is grounded to the intake manifold, underneath a bolt which holds down the ignition coil.

The wire bundles at the engine computer should not be hanging and exerting their weight on the engine computer connectors and stressing them out.

Something every Dodge owner should also own is a can of this:

https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-Laboratories-4320252293-DEOXIT-Perfect/dp/B01L2JB18M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIguis3Kqk5gIVk8BkCh3JMgDxEAAYASAAEgJvGPD_BwE&hvadid=174264866581&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9031293&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2023032625319429748&hvtargid=kwd-6439133353&hydadcr=24661_9649005&keywords=caig+deoxit+d5&qid=1575749079&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=ATZ61JQHZC6XB&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNVBXSkVZT0pERFZUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODQ4MjM1MkJWWExCMERMQU1UQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzk3NTEyMTVYVDVTODJENlBMSCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

it is too expensive a product to flush out the crusty dielectric grease from 30 year old connectors, use some cheaper CRC QD connector cleaner for that, but afterwasrds use the Caig deoxit d5 to actually clean the mating conductive surfaces and sometimes just spraying it on inoperable electrical devices, makes them work again, with no disassembly.

Using it on ones USB micro phone connectors and such will have the connectors actually click when inserted into the phone and one might notice faster battery charging and longer battery life too.

[minddroool]

The transmission pan on an A-500 is basically square, with one corner lopped off.
The transmission pan on an A-518 is basically square, but one side has a bulge and gets wider .

Never use any transmission but ATF+4 in these transmissions and do not expect any transmission shop or quickie lube joint to actually use the correct fluid. Read Heron's transmission life optimizer thread as the TX's, especially the a-500, has a weak overdrive unit that needs to be babied.

https://vandwellerforum.com/thread-3221-...l#pid54509

Many of the gauges get 5 volts instead of battery voltage. there is a 5v regulator inside on the gauge cluster ( which is known for solder fractures) there using some 1930s technology. Way back before 3g cell phones if my pre flip phone Nokia was seeking a 2g signal, my phone would actually make my temp and fuel gauges swing up and down 1/4 of their range in a few seconds.
A new dashboard 5v regulator as Dodge installed is 28$ on RockAuto, I used a 7$ 3 amp voltage bucker when mine became questionable. 5 vs 5.5 volts is almost one hatchmark on the fuel and temp gauges. There are some grounds in the dashboard area too. Any ring terminal just attached to metal, like the dashboard under the plastic shroud, is a ground and any one of these can be suspect .

On mine the ground for the drivers side headlamps and the washer motor pump, and something else, cant remember, were all joined together on 18awg wire and then grounded to firewall behind the battery. My headlamp voltage drop was reduced 0.5 volts just by separating and upgrading these grounds, before I installed a relayed harness bypassing the headlamps switch.

It was heavily corroded and way undergauge wire size. Chrysler seemed to save money by claiming to use one wire size and then using the next size or 2 down in this era of vehicle. My factory service manual is often saying specific wire A, is supposed to be 14awg a certain color and yet it is 16 or 18, but it is that color, most of the time.

So many Dodge electrical problems are undersized wiring, and bad grounds and the big square bulkhead connector near the battery on the firewall, has 20 amp circuits using 18awg wire which is incredibly undersized if indeed 20 amps should be required to pass.

Having a good battery to firewall and battery to engine grounds are paramount. One can add a ground from battery to frame or from the same bolt that the battery to engine ground, to the frame. All grounds on any vehicle can become problematic after 29 years. Sometimes removing them completely to wirebrush all mating surfaces is not practical, Sometimes loosening them and spraying them with some Caig DeOxit d5 or D100 and retightening can make them behave properly again.

My engine computer is grounded to the intake manifold, underneath a bolt which holds down the ignition coil.

The wire bundles at the engine computer should not be hanging and exerting their weight on the engine computer connectors and stressing them out.

Something every Dodge owner should also own is a can of this:

https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-Laboratories-4320252293-DEOXIT-Perfect/dp/B01L2JB18M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIguis3Kqk5gIVk8BkCh3JMgDxEAAYASAAEgJvGPD_BwE&hvadid=174264866581&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9031293&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2023032625319429748&hvtargid=kwd-6439133353&hydadcr=24661_9649005&keywords=caig+deoxit+d5&qid=1575749079&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=ATZ61JQHZC6XB&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNVBXSkVZT0pERFZUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODQ4MjM1MkJWWExCMERMQU1UQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzk3NTEyMTVYVDVTODJENlBMSCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

it is too expensive a product to flush out the crusty dielectric grease from 30 year old connectors, use some cheaper CRC QD connector cleaner for that, but afterwasrds use the Caig deoxit d5 to actually clean the mating conductive surfaces and sometimes just spraying it on inoperable electrical devices, makes them work again, with no disassembly.

Using it on ones USB micro phone connectors and such will have the connectors actually click when inserted into the phone and one might notice faster battery charging and longer battery life too.

Wow! So much information !!! Ty! I have never been my own mechanic before.... I am learning Her.... I will revisit this as I go..... Grateful

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[rvpopeye]

Not bad for a bunch of "Ain't Right-ers" huh ?
(Kind of part of the plan going into this forum...)

You're new here so I'll re-post this.
The name is the You Ain't Right Club ,,, NOT the I Ain't Right Club....also planned from the beginning...
Skuh kuh kuh kuh kuh kuh

[minddroool]

Not bad for a bunch of "Ain't Right-ers" huh ?
(Kind of part of the plan going into this forum...)

You're new here so I'll re-post this.
The name is the You Ain't Right Club ,,, NOT the I Ain't Right Club....also planned from the beginning...
Skuh kuh kuh kuh kuh kuh

LoLoLoL.... You ain't Right

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