So it begins...... Battery spot welder

[rvpopeye]

After a few rounds of experimentation . You will invent the fix.
To the lab ora tory Dr. Wake>>>

[sternwake]

Power level 3 of 4,
is still plenty torquey
And fast enough,
and the brakes are strong, but not jerky..
Me thinks some Faderlube on the thumbwheel coukd be beneficial.

The 350watters interface with speed controllerr, is just overall smoother.

[rvpopeye]

Set a course matey !

[sternwake]

Another 8" round hatch arrived too.
Gonna go in the rear well.

Its more for interior access, rather than storage, at this point.

The Forcastle Sapele cormorant hunting platform, could become her preferred full time location, so the rear hatch might get some ballast., as
It steers poorly with her up front. Tends to track.

I am debating the platforms future epoxy stages. I slowly sanded it to fit the multiple compound curves. tape smooth side of sandpaper, lift platforms, slide it under, lower platform, pull paper and sand.
10k sanding strokes, but basically perfect fit.

But i want fiberglass covering wood on a few more major hard points.
Epoxy not likely to bond to polyP. I cant get masking tape to stick.
to my surprise some adhesive backed, light density neoprene stuck well, but some thicker stuff did not, at all.
Low surface energy materials apparently need a weak adhesive to have hope of being bonded to.


Coukld use kayak itself as mold and have it form an even tighter fit.
but shoukd the epoxy actually bond....Nightmare.

Ill have to drape it with polyethelene plastic so that it cannot.

I guess ive acclimated to Florida climate.
Its 74f outside, and i got the chills.

The E skateboards have 3 wires from ESC to each motor, and a bunch of sensor wires. from ESC to motor, all sheathed together.

I wonder if there is some inductive interference causing the less than stellar throttle and brake function. or perhaos RFI screwing with the radio signal between board and hand remote.

Its just not smooth and linear actuation of throttle, or brake, like the underpowered 350.

A top quality ESC , or Vesc , is not inexpensive, but coulld solve my driveability complaints.
if.my ministrations fail to alleviate them.

[sternwake]

It seems dementia is contagious

I was trying to figure out how to reliably be able to change power settings on 700 remote, and at one point after a distraction, lost connectivity between remote and skateboard and it refused to reconnect.

After an unsuitable amount of fustration and cursing, i realized iI ha piicked up the remote from the 350 skate.


I did a bunch of circles and figure 8's in driveway. At all 4 power levels.
They all seem to have same torque, just different max speeds, and they accelerate past that max speed, then back off and limit it.

The weird jerkyness on power level 4, when braking, seems to have resolved itself, for now.

The 700 hand remote is way more sensitive than the 350, twice the power, 3 times the braking and half the range of thumbwheel is effective. Seems the upper third of range has no use.

After a while doung figure 8s on the 700, i took out 350 and it was way more pleasant, and in the limited space of driveway, If i were to set up a tight track and time race the 2, the 350 would win.

I loosened the trucks on the 700 to floppy washer rattling loose, but leaning hard as i can, there is a hard limit on how far the trucks move, meaning limited turning radius, meaning turning tighter means pivoting nose wheels off the ground via kicktail, and while i was adept at this, in the 80's and very early 90s, that was long ago.

My long Push skate has super loose trucks, and even with twice the wheelbase, it has half the turning radius.

Id like a sharper turning radius even if it costs stability at higher speeds.
Softer bushings possible, shorter wheelbase mandatory if new skate is to fit in Fyak hatch.
Wedge shaped risers can also change the feel and turnng radius.

Lots of experimentation is going to be required if i want to love the 700s carvy feel.

It has a nice bamboo veneer. Nice looking board. Kind of dont want to ut into it but Fyak hatch is most important.

The 700 does not show me battery voltage via the barrell plug, which is same size as the 350. Kind of bummed on this.
Not an insurmountable issue, just defeating my deaire to see actual voltage, not just 4 leds.

Ive not removed battery and ESC enclosure from deck, yet.



Ive not tested OCV of new power supply, as I'm just using my CV only 150 watt dc to dc converter to charge from garage based Deka GC-2's.

The 700 PS /CHARGER Seems identical to 350. same 1.5 amp at 29.4v claimed output.


The 700's wheels are 80mm diameter, the 350 are 72mm.
My old skates wheels were once 70s but the worst worn one is now is 59mm on inside and 67 outside.

[sternwake]

I like the shape of the new skate.

 A Shorter board,  with narrower wheelbase forces a narrower stance, one which causes  more susceptibility  to acceleration torque related falls backwards, or when  braking, falling forward.

It's only one 9/16" nut to remove the portion of the front truk with the wheels, and in doing sklo, it then  slides into the Fyak hatch and can be slid way further back in the yak, Thus increasing remainjng interior accessible space.

After the Homeresque "Whohoo's"abated slightly,
I had a closer look at the trucks movement.
Even with bushing completely removed, the truck would only angle so far before it butted up against the kingpin in a hard stop.

Thus it would never ever go any farther.due to metal on metal interference.
And when pushed hard enough, the cast aluminum truck or truck base, woukd break before the steel kingpin would.

Out comes dremel amd carbide burr, and I clearanced the zone.
reassembled and tested.

Range increased on front truck greatly but rear truck  was still limiting  tilt range.

Wires from battery ESC enclosure to motors on rear truck prevented truk removal, so unscrewed enclosure.
The ESC is potted in epoxy, good sign from an engineering staNdpoint.

Taped off ingress points of hub motors and carbide burred some clearance, and reassembled.
 Turning radius now reduced by half.
Can I get a yeehaw, and a whohoo?

The 350 still turns sharper and smoother, but 700  is now much improved.

Even with increased range of trucks, the wheels are not   coming close to touching the recesses on underside of deck.
Recesses which are not really positioned properly for  the intended added clearance had the range of movement been possible.
The truck baseplates are  raised up 3/8" from the bottom of the deck. 
 Two stacked 3/16" spacers.
They are hard rubber..

I dont really like the additional height of board over my other skates, and it is not needed from a wheel clearance atandpoint, unless i dremel more off the truck interiors.


So i can lower board and still have same range or keep it this high and dremel more cast aluminum for additional truk ange.

Anyway, no deck modifications necessary for Fionayak duty.
Its got enough torque and range for that duty,

And i can get to beer store even faster.

Mmmmmmmm
Beer.
   
   

[rvpopeye]

Dial in progressing ...... sounds like almost there !
Beer thirty.

[sternwake]

The long way to the beer store, is now the fun way. as some of the asphalt is Super smooth. 
screw that straight line crap.

When the battery level hits 2 of 4 bars, there is no difference in top speed between power level 3 and 4.

When the motors are warm to hot from extended higher speed cruising and carving, the hideous dangerous  jerky braking  returns, much to my dismay.
One.of the hub motors feels less strong and precise when unpowered and spun slowly by hand.

Ive got an email in, tried to maKe it google translate friendly.

Id love to have the brakes work smoothly reliably.
Kind of scary now.

[sternwake]

I've wTchex severaL videos on makng Eskate baTtery packs.
These guys are doing huge Packs 12s, 8p.

There is so much I dont yet know., and building ones own battery, for a highly flexible,super tight comoartment, high vibration environment, is worlds apart from a drop in 100ah lifepo4.


Ive been pushing the limits of both Esk8s.
Hissing ueethane wheels doth protest.
They say:
'you are too old!
You ahould put on a helmet
for Fvcks sake at least put on shoes."


Nonsense, shaddup, my hair is prematurely grey, you whiners.

I saw a 'parts onky' 350 watt Eskate for38$. sold.

The brakes on 700 watter are nearly unusable on any power level now. They are ao bad, they act like a fan whose speed potentiometer smoked crack, ate psilocybin mushrooms, and decided sticking a key in an outlet whike standing barefoot in a ouddle or water, was the wise thing to do

The wireless remote uses a hall effect sensor, not a potentiometer to adjust throttle and brake, both of which, suck.
But it is stupidly fun, addicting.


The antenna for the wireless remote was wrOoed Riund motor sensor wires and ohase power wires, multiple times.

The ESC.. electronic speed controller is mounted to a fairly thick flat aluminum plate as a heat sink. the opposite side of this heatsink has a few holes.for airflow through enclsure.

the assembler stdipoed two of the countersjnk screws that hold heatsink down, and used larger screws.
The bottom.of potted ESC, is supposed to mount flat to the heafsink, for effi ient heat transfer.

the two oversize screws would not fit the countersunk hole, so heatsink has 1 mm gap, and insufficient thermaL grease to make any difference in heat transfer.

Such poor quality control.

Ill be adding finned heatsinks to the aluminum plate, and running antenna as far away from motor phase power wires and sensor wires as possible.

Hooefully the brakes and throttle control improve with such ministrations.
I know the heat dissipation of Electronic speed controller will be improved many fold, when I reassemble, but suspect the hideously Jerky brakes, and not so smooth throttle are a QC or design issue beyond my ability to mitigate with apit and polish

[sternwake]

Fiona's  Sapele Cormorant hunting perch is nearing the final stages.. 
   

I have larger  wider  burlier wheels with nicer hubs,  to fit the trolley, but some modifications will be required, with a few unknowns until i commit,  and bust out metal cutting wheel, and JB weld.

So that is tabled, for now.


The 38$ parts only NonOp E skateboard arrived.
I had to delve.Long story short,  One of the 7 cells is 0.025v, the other 6 were 4.00, +/- 0.002v

The Battery seemed to be well assembled.  fishpaper rings on positive terminals, fishpaoper between cells, fishtPaper doubled uo in any areas where  stress or   or  compession could damage a wire or cell interconnect niickle strip. Kapton tabe, two layers of thick heatshrink.

It was just a cell failure and the BMS, did its job.
So i took XT60 connector from battery, fed it 25v from my voltage booster, prezsed the power button and it beeped.I tur ed on the remote, fired the throttle and the wheel spun up.

The itty bitty ESC, has no additiknal heatsinking. I now  think my other 350 board is actually a dual motor esc, running onky one motor.

I also believe the motors can consume 350 watts, with a 10s battery and 36 nominal volts, 42v max.
yet they are fed by only 25.2  nominal volts, 29.4v max.
the 38$sk8 is a one piece plastic deck and molded enclosure. It can fit 10 cells, maybe even 10 21700s. inside of it.

Im kind of torn on whether i want to return it to full function or use the enclosure and soeed  ontroller to power a 300 watt thruster motor for the kayak.
THE 700 is still disassembled, victim of my other projects.

Ive got xt60, and xt 90 connectors ordered. They are universal standard in this world and are more compact and less fragile than Andersons.

I can get a 10s ESC, and run 10 cells inside this new skate. If 10 21700s fit, it will basically double the range, and likely hit higher top speeds, and have more torque too.
Too many options, but it is a great candidate for my first battery build.

the 6 remaining 2000mah  cells are likely healthier than the 3 ryobi 18650s which only once had 1500mah.

I got to see if i can find a d
atasheet for them