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Code name “Baby”
You really needed the front end done but the manifold , not so much !
Open the windows and hold your heads out a little. LOL I assume the co-pilot has this down already and will need no remedial training or incentives .
You've got to be getting closer to safe and smooth.
stay tuned 
  Cool
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Oh haha.
No, I would rather get it fixed and not risk engine damage and/or blown bead gaskets, etc.. part is not very expensive, and it is 7 bolts and a skinned knuckle to fix.
My body is a temple- Ancient and crumbling,  
probably cursed 


Dog Bender with 4.2 Stinkin' Badges 
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  • rvpopeye (05-21-2023)
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I'm not sure now but skinned knuckles were extra ,,$20 each a while back in the last century.....
stay tuned 
  Cool
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  • GypsyDogs (05-21-2023)
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Removing exhaust manifold nuts, often breaks the studs in the head.

Gettng the broken stud out, might then require head removal.

It can turn into the mother of all curse fests.

Had a friend who tried instead to braze over the crack in cast iron on a sb hevy, with some special solder, which worked, but durability unknown
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  • GypsyDogs (05-21-2023)
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I found a great product for working on machinery. 

JB 80. Justice Brothers answer to WD 40. 

JB Weld is worth trying before you go and remove knuckles. I have had 90% success with manifold repair with it.
Compared to parenting, Cat herding is less complicated
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  • GypsyDogs (05-21-2023)
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Sigh- and, after replacing the temp sending sensor and speed sensor… neither read correctly on the dash- STILL.
Next stop checking dash connections and ground.. f’ng sigh (in all my spare time..)
My body is a temple- Ancient and crumbling,  
probably cursed 


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On my 89, there was a 12v to 5v mechaNical device, for the fuel and temp gauges.

These started reading more and more bizarre, and when i put digital voltmeter on me device it was far too confused to read average voltage.

New device was 35$+

New solid state IP68 voltage bucker was 7$.

Once added i could raise and lower the gas and temp gauges with the buckers adjustment potentiometer. 0.3v difference is a full hatchmark on fuel or coolant temp.

Later, When i noticed abnormal readings, i attached a compmuter fan connector, and 5 digit voltmeter. 5.2784 has my teml gauge reading a hatchmark above normal and fuel easily 3/4 of a hatchmark.

5.0031 and it reads normLal.

Now.i just leave red voltmeter connected, and tilt it down at night. The bucker usually is within 0.05 of 5v even, but sometimes decides 5.274 is reasonable.
Whenever i see gauges reading high, so does this voltmeter.

I used to keep the adjustment pot accessible with jewelers screwdriver velcroed next to it, but that became unnecessary work.
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Is your vehicle speed sensor on differential, or transmission?
Mine is inline on speedo cable.
There is a little magnetic reed switch inside that opens and closes about 7 times each revolution iirc.

But my vss does not affect speedo, only overdrive and lockup of my AOD a-500 tx.

Ordering the factory service manual, for your specific year, is among the best possible investments in your saNity.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/152798272178?ch...dwQAvD_BwE
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  • GypsyDogs (05-21-2023)
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My speedo is the interim on tranny. Old style cable interface to tranny, but with electronics leading to Speedo gauge.
I will look for the 12-5 widget and see if it is working..
My body is a temple- Ancient and crumbling,  
probably cursed 


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