So it begins...... Battery spot welder

[sternwake]

This is just horrible quLity control
   

the doh dohs are blue
   

Testjng the  Bottom.of the ESC for flatness

   

[sternwake]

These XT 60 connectors are pretty legit.  much tighter fit than APPs, and stronger when seated. Andersons are pretty fragile.
i have two new wattemeters ordered, they are getting the xt 60s, bjt since xt 69s have mLe and femaLes
   
one wattmeter will be dedicated load, one will be dedicTed source, and ill likely make anderson  APP to xt60 adapters.  I am also going run a parallel xt 69 to the ESC, so i can plug in an external battery for more range, and of course, to see actual max wattage.


The taped off portion is basically sealed off from the enclosure interior. These  are the salvaged finned heatsinks, which will be exposed to airflow.
   

Ive  not yet perfected the flatness of ESC bottom, but even as is nkw, it should suck way more heat from the mosfets.
   

[sternwake]

The corner of the ESC, restex on this screw head, fkr about  1mm gap between bmesc Nd heatsink

   

The huge amount of grease is supposed to transfer the heat from one to the other, bjt thermL greSe iz supoosex to filk tiny gaps, not huge ones

   

700,     and the Penny

[rvpopeye]

Board Yoda ,,,, A consulting engineer you are .
They obviously need help there as well as assembly line training.....
Give them a chance to hire you before the review gets posted ! LOL
Will share your results and fixes for unlimited free parts..... arrrrrrrrr.

[sternwake]

I reassembled it, gave it a quick test run in driveway.  the turning radius is now rather insane.
seems, and i think the softer bushings absorb the gaos in the pavers better.

I sat on the board next to Fiona, and she climbed in my lap, and We did a few figure 8s.
I hears a noise coking from the wheel, the less criso feeling wheel.
Apart comes the hub motor.
They used way too much adhesive as a thread locker, but i managed not to strip or cam out any screw.


The hub has rust  spots. they installed the magnets on top of this rust.
one magnet is lightly brushing the stator.

The 'thread locker' spooge, was also not where it shoukd have been. it might have bsen increasing runout as outer bearing holder could have been slightly off
.    

   


.

[sternwake]

Well, the less precise motor is unchanged in feel, and i can still sometimes hear something rubbing, but it could be the other hub motor, which of course will be disassembled, and inspected.

The brakes are still jerky, sometimes, and doing its weird staccato lockuo thing before motors even get hot. Reocating antenna and organizing wiring and hearsinking, seems to have done nothing in this regard.

I'm thinking the ESC is at fault. but it seema to be one of those things where diagnosis means replace and see.

The spot welder has arrived. It Looks a bit beefed up compared to its older product reviews on youtube. A thick brass bar is used instead of a fat trace of solder.

They say no less than a 25amp hour 12v lead acid Battery can be used. ActuLly says 25 to 50, though i cant see how too big a battery could be detrimental.

The only nickel strip i have is all schmemmied from removal of failed 38$k8 battery, so testing might have to wait for nes nickel strip, . to fire it up.

If i can wait.

Half the road outfront is repaved. I was on itt while it was still hot from the machines.
so smooth, and quiet.


Damn jerky brakes.

[VanlifeWired]

That theres real nice, but heres what I carry.......    

Running Dad Bod's 105mm

[sternwake]

Nice.
that an Evolve?
If i didn't need it to fit in kayak hatch, I'd have a longer deck..

I hadn't followed the progression of Eskate design over the last decade, but the few boards i saw, and heard, the belt drive, was a bit offputting to me.

I only became aware of hub motors a few months ago when a friend was asking me what i knew about eskates and realized I knew nothing.

I came across those oranguatang wheels several months back, when looking for new wheels for my long cruiser push skate, but their price said i did not need new wheels that badly.

This started with the desire to get the kayak to the launch, not driving or walking it. I was looking into an escooter wheel to power the kayak trolley, which would then push me on my long skate, which could be strapped to kayak deck and get wet without worry, even if unideal.

I came across the $99.25 Anzo Penny board, and then pushed my long push skate into the yak hatch as far as it would go, measured, and then ordered the Anzo.

Looks like the market is now being flooded with cheap chinese crap.

The Anzos brethern and similar were all 169$ a few weeks ago, now seem to be down to 129$.

The 38es$@8 has been available from wal mart for at least a year for about 200$.
Has a 10s battery. not a 7s

Sad to see some OG Eskate developers throw in the towel.

I got so many questions for some guys on eskate forums, but .....

Ive rewarded their undercutting nemesis' with my purchases.

The jerky brakes has me searching for new speed controller, not a VESC, at this point.

The 'aladdin' ESC inside mine has to be the cause.

The ESC I am considering, says 10s only, but elsewhere says 24 to 36v, and low voltage protection. If a 7s battery workz, what about that low voltage alarm/shutoff?. I don't believe the 24v claim.

I busted out graph paper and a compass to see if i could fit 10 21700s inside my enclosure which has 14 18650s in 7s2p and wound up at 'maybe'.

Also cant find any dimensions of the ESC.

Basically i am now designing and fabricating 'in my mind' a fiberglass battery and esc enclosure which can fit 20 21700 p42 molicels.

Even though i dont need more torque , speed or range, and have a thousand other projects. which should take precedence,

but this one is far more interesting, and fun.

That new pavement, is calling me, and the Mangroves are calling Fiona.

[VanlifeWired]

Hi,  Here is some comments:

Nice.
that an Evolve? (It is a Loaded Fathom.  My only other board is a 42" Amazon ordered Magneto with Caliber trucks and Seismic wheels)

If i didn't need it to fit in kayak hatch, I'd have a longer deck..  (this guy is a 33" deck counting the brackets on the ends and has 23" of foot space)

I hadn't followed the progression of Eskate design over the last decade, but the few boards i saw, and heard, the belt drive, was a bit offputting to me.  (I agree, the hub motors seem like the way to go.  I do like the ability if I ever get an electric, that the wheels could free roll to so if the battery is out of juice, I can still push or carve)

I only became aware of hub motors  a few months ago when a friend was asking me what i knew about eskates and realized I knew nothing.

I came across those oranguatang wheels several months back, when looking for new wheels for my long cruiser push skate, but their price said i did not need new wheels that badly.  (I get that.  A bit ridiculous what some wheels cost.  It is my only vice really so I didn't panic to bad on the price)

This started with the desire to get the kayak to the launch, not driving or walking it.  I was looking into an escooter wheel to power the kayak trolley, which would then push me on my long skate, which  could be strapped to kayak deck and get wet without worry, even if unideal.  (Cool idea!)

I came across the $99.25 Anzo Penny board, and  then pushed my long push skate into the yak hatch as far as it would go, measured, and then ordered the Anzo.

Looks like the market is now being flooded with cheap chinese crap.  (Everything is flooded with CCC!)

The Anzos brethern and similar were all 169$ a few weeks ago, now seem to be down to 129$.

The 38es$@8 has been available from wal mart for at least a year for about 200$.
Has a 10s battery. not a 7s

Sad to see some OG Eskate developers throw in the towel.  (Yes, been seeing a lot of companies not making it.  Including the partner (Unlimited X) for Loaded boards)

I got so many questions for some guys on eskate forums, but .....

Ive rewarded their undercutting nemesis' with my purchases.

The jerky brakes has me searching for new speed controller, not a VESC, at this point.

The 'aladdin' ESC  inside mine has to be the cause. 

The ESC I am considering, says 10s only, but elsewhere says 24 to 36v, and low voltage protection.  If a 7s battery workz, what about that low  voltage alarm/shutoff?.  I don't believe the 24v claim.

I busted out graph paper and a  compass to see if i  could fit 10 21700s inside my enclosure which has 14 18650s in 7s2p and wound up at 'maybe'.

Also cant find any dimensions of the ESC.

Basically i am now designing and fabricating  'in my mind' a fiberglass battery and esc enclosure which can fit 20 21700 p42 molicels.

Even though i dont need more torque , speed or range, and have a thousand other projects. which should  take precedence,

but this one is far more interesting, and fun.

That new pavement, is calling me, and the Mangroves are calling Fiona.

[sternwake]

The pic of your board was pixellated enough i did not notice that it was not an electric.

The hub motors can be pushed regularly, but there is noticeable drag. If my push skate were as draggy , Id be buying new wheels and or bearings, or not bother riding it any distance unless it was all downhill.

Still better than a ramp or street trick board and their hard tiny wheels.
even when i was a kid I hated the noisy hard small wheels and lost interest entirely when they were all tiny wheeled noisy trick boards with no glide.


Not having to push, is a game changer.
iIs best to push to get moving from a dead stop, for the battery, but one can just stand on it and push the throttle forward and start laughing.
It's very weird adjusting to it accelerating or braking, and my more powerful one still puts me on my back foot accelerating and the brakes are just stupid dangerous, sometimes..

Eskating is just stulpid fun, endlessly carving tight hissing turns, until my calves are burning, or i scare myself with over confidence, or the cobwebs are cleared, and its time to head back to the workbench.

Kind of glad i got the 350 watt version first, the '700' would have hurt me far worse that first night i rode it with a few too many beers in belly.

The 350 is so maneuverable, I really enjoy riding it, even though it is just so ...Chinese.
It is the best 106$ ive ever spent.

Looks like it is still $99.25 +tax

https://www.ebay.com/itm/134793891558?ha...BMtpzM3Pxi


Id not recommend anyone who did not grow up riding skateboards, to try and learn on an Eboard, as knowing how to run out of it, or fall correctly, is best learned when young and rubberjointed.

I'm just now getting used to the kicktail pivoting again, and remembering some old muscle memory lost over 30 years of riding long cruiser skateboards.




Seems i was a bit hasty in my spot welder purchase.


There are 3 versions of the visually same product, and the one i got is the most iffy.

There is a guy on youtube, Luca, who examines and tests all the circuitry of the available soot welders and finds them all lacking and poorly designed, and how to fix them so they weld better reliably consistently, and will not fry the mosfets prematurely.

My version apparently requires 2 resistors to prevent premature self schmemification, and even then the consistency of the wekds is bad

the baTtery size and health seems to be a sweetspot as well, with too bjg being an issue as is being too small, and i have too big and too small, but no goldilocks battery.

I dont know if i could successfully solder something so small as is shown in his vids.

Apparently the mosfets need to be pretty well matched, and its luck of the draw whether they are or not, as matching them takes time and effort and adds cost.


But i might have ordered a 25$ doorstop.
But it might last the first battery pack i make as is.

I think ill just make two 3s batteries fiirst with the salvaged 2000 mah BFN 18650s, and keep researching better apot welders which dont need resiztors Nd capa itors added to work properly, reliably.